front hydragas pressure

If you're taking on the task of rebuilding the whole Midas, please put the project in here.

Moderator: The Midas Forum Staff

front hydragas pressure

Postby b1zbaz » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:15 pm

what pressure do i want in the front hydragas units on a gold coupe its currently running 400 psi but looks a bit high what is the recommended arch gap
b1zbaz
 
Posts: 787
Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:38 am

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby Stuart » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:36 pm

Have you driven it then? if not I'd wait to see how it settles before lowering the pressure
User avatar
Stuart
 
Posts: 1719
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:29 pm
Location: Derbyshire

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby b1zbaz » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:45 pm

no not driven it im desperate to drive it really cant wait its pretty much finished apart from the god damn bloody pain in the arse horrible impossible to find bastard headlight brackets sorry for swearing
b1zbaz
 
Posts: 787
Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:38 am

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby Alan D. » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:53 pm

b1zbaz wrote:no not driven it im desperate to drive it really cant wait its pretty much finished apart from the god damn bloody pain in the arse horrible impossible to find bastard headlight brackets sorry for swearing


I need two sets. Where have you tried? We are talking Mk 3 here!

Alan
User avatar
Alan D.
 
Posts: 945
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 10:34 pm
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby b1zbaz » Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:03 pm

i have trawled the internet for hours looking for them and had no luck
b1zbaz
 
Posts: 787
Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:38 am

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby Rich » Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:07 am

The distance between centre of hub and lip of arch is 12 1/4" + or - 1/8th"

I've never yet had a hydrogas pump that I've believed the pressure gauge on, always set to height rather than pressure and allow plenty of settling before you put the pump away.
User avatar
Rich
 
Posts: 1250
Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:27 am
Location: Devon

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby Hans Efde » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:50 am

That's the rubbish bit of the hydragas units. In the end mine was pumped up properly with liquid so the car had the proper height at the front wheels, but the springing action was completely gone. It's the only way to adjust them, but what these units would need is a way to put nitrogen in the head. Or better get rid of them. I just bought a brand new OEM front subframe for modification to accept the Watson springs. Can't wait to have it on the car.
User avatar
Hans Efde
 
Posts: 1731
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:11 pm
Location: IJlst, Netherlands

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby DavidL » Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:40 pm

Hans Efde wrote:That's the rubbish bit of the hydragas units. In the end mine was pumped up properly with liquid so the car had the proper height at the front wheels, but the springing action was completely gone. It's the only way to adjust them, but what these units would need is a way to put nitrogen in the head. Or better get rid of them. I just bought a brand new OEM front subframe for modification to accept the Watson springs. Can't wait to have it on the car.

Would it be possible to completely empty the units, then drill a hole in the top and fit a Schrader-type** valve, then have it filled with nitrogen?


** Sorry, don't know how to do umlauts.
User avatar
DavidL
 
Posts: 858
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:15 pm
Location: Tayport, Fife

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby Stuart » Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:00 pm

There were/are places that sell modified spheres, you can use air as well. but all that is dependant on the chamber still being intact and air-tight.
User avatar
Stuart
 
Posts: 1719
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:29 pm
Location: Derbyshire

Re: front hydragas pressure

Postby DavidL » Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:21 pm

Stuart wrote:There were/are places that sell modified spheres, you can use air as well. but all that is dependant on the chamber still being intact and air-tight.

I was assuming that the steel housing is what keeps the pressure in, whose condition it's relatively easy to assess. Is there actually an inner membrane as well? :?
User avatar
DavidL
 
Posts: 858
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:15 pm
Location: Tayport, Fife

Next

Return to Complete Midas rebuild

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 38 guests