Midas Cars Forum - www.midascarsforum.com

what pressure do i want in the front hydragas units on a gold coupe its currently running 400 psi but looks a bit high what is the recommended arch gap

Have you driven it then? if not I'd wait to see how it settles before lowering the pressure

no not driven it im desperate to drive it really cant wait its pretty much finished apart from the god damn bloody pain in the arse horrible impossible to find bastard headlight brackets sorry for swearing

b1zbaz wrote:no not driven it im desperate to drive it really cant wait its pretty much finished apart from the god damn bloody pain in the arse horrible impossible to find bastard headlight brackets sorry for swearing

I need two sets. Where have you tried? We are talking Mk 3 here!

Alan

i have trawled the internet for hours looking for them and had no luck

The distance between centre of hub and lip of arch is 12 1/4" + or - 1/8th"

I've never yet had a hydrogas pump that I've believed the pressure gauge on, always set to height rather than pressure and allow plenty of settling before you put the pump away.

That's the rubbish bit of the hydragas units. In the end mine was pumped up properly with liquid so the car had the proper height at the front wheels, but the springing action was completely gone. It's the only way to adjust them, but what these units would need is a way to put nitrogen in the head. Or better get rid of them. I just bought a brand new OEM front subframe for modification to accept the Watson springs. Can't wait to have it on the car.

Hans Efde wrote:That's the rubbish bit of the hydragas units. In the end mine was pumped up properly with liquid so the car had the proper height at the front wheels, but the springing action was completely gone. It's the only way to adjust them, but what these units would need is a way to put nitrogen in the head. Or better get rid of them. I just bought a brand new OEM front subframe for modification to accept the Watson springs. Can't wait to have it on the car.

Would it be possible to completely empty the units, then drill a hole in the top and fit a Schrader-type** valve, then have it filled with nitrogen?


** Sorry, don't know how to do umlauts.

There were/are places that sell modified spheres, you can use air as well. but all that is dependant on the chamber still being intact and air-tight.

Stuart wrote:There were/are places that sell modified spheres, you can use air as well. but all that is dependant on the chamber still being intact and air-tight.

I was assuming that the steel housing is what keeps the pressure in, whose condition it's relatively easy to assess. Is there actually an inner membrane as well?