J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

If you're taking on the task of rebuilding the whole Midas, please put the project in here.

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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby Jin » Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:40 pm

Latest jobs

The shocks were in a bad state, they squeaked all the time even when stationary (figure that?) so some new ones were ordered, once I finally received a matching pair I set to it,

The “before” pic
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With the old shock out the way I could also find a few areas of voids in the fibreglass leading to pockets in the gelcoat, these were cleaned and picked out of lose material, then filled in with fresh resin to re-bond the fibres
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New shock in place
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You can see the problem, the old bushes had been cut down leaving them loose, the shaft had been chattering against the body causing the shaft to be worn away by the glass fibre

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Thankfully the body was perfect, good to see how tough it is
Same round the passenger side, its good to see that despite to poor state of the suspension the front subframe is in very good condition
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Its was cleaned up and carefully masked and given a couple of coats of Dinitrol
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Then the splash liners were cleaned up and replaced with new clips
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This’ll do till I get round to the coilovers,
I’ve also finished te front end wiring
Ok so when I say front end its literally just the wires in front of the wheels but it had to be done
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Fan switch wiring and both headlight units rewired with new cables and plugs ans all spiral wrapped up.

Ive also started replacing the subframe mounting bolts, the fronts are in a terrible state due to being sat in a bath of water each time the car gets wet
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More on that soon…..
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby Jin » Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:04 pm

I’ve been quite for a bit so thought it best to give another update
The car has been going well so to speak with no major issues
One thing that was bugging the hell out of me was the constant whine from under the bonnet, it was obviously coming from the cambelt area so was a cause for concern.
After pricing up the whole kit inc water pump and seeking advice as to how pleasant a job it was going to be I (unusually for me) opted out of doing it myself and got somebody in to do it, that somebody was “MG rover mobile mechanics” http://www.mg-rovermobilemechanics.com/ I found them online while searching for hints and tips on how to do it, took one look at their price list and took a chance,
I hate the thought of anyone touching my car – id do my own MOTS if I could so this was a brave step but it paid off, the 2 mechanics that came out were very clued up and could have done the job in their sleep, not only that but they put me at ease for the duration of the job and true to his work “Dave” fitted the considered to be upgraded belt and pulley from the VVC which is 3mm wider so less prone to breakage, the workmanship was spot on I could not fault them at all, I wholly recommend these people.
The whine was as suspected with the (not very old) belt being so tight you could have played a tune on it.
Job done I can rev up happily now, I turned my attention to the exhaust, I really did not like the original “up’n’parp” tail pipe looking like a wheel barrow handle and about half a foot away from the bumper,

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So some jiggling of the clamps was in order – well total replacement of all clamps was needed due to serious corrosion

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These were all replaced with Mikalor ones

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And some major modifications raised the rear box as high as I would go (still not high enough though) to correct he tail pipe

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Now to replace the “up’n’parp” with a straight “parp’n’flute” and all is well

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Other jobs I’ve done is to replace the CTS for a brand new one in an attempt to solve my stinky exhaust, it didn’t but at least it’s another new bit

Long story short the exhaust stinks like mad, like a normal exhaust smell but 1000 time stronger to the point it knocks you on your feet when you open the door to get out, I’ve replaced the CTS and checked over most of the ECU wiring but have yet to locate any fault, the IAT sensor may be at fault since unplugging it makes no difference to engine running but it’s a long shot, ill check lambda voltage tomorrow once it’s warm but I don’t suspect this since it looks new and is a bosch one, other likely culprits are the fuel regulator so I my I’ve this a prod later too, anyone have any other ideas?

And lastly I’ve been working on a project since I got the car which has taken 3 months to complete, more details coming soon
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby Jin » Fri Nov 28, 2014 2:29 pm

much to my total disbelief it passed the MOT yesterday :o
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby Jin » Wed Dec 24, 2014 12:54 am

Recent jobs and update - bit of a big one this so take your time

Sub frame bolts

First on the list was the sub frame bolts, due to the front panel cavity filling with water the bolts passing through to the sub frame were so rusty that drilling the heads off was the only option to remove them, so first job was to get them out

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Then to find the replacements, here I decided to go for titanium and saved a few quid since these aren’t the fancy polished ones you see in most places, they are however a direct replacement for 8.8 grades in terms of strength, which I figure is perfectly acceptable since the bolts only go into fiberglass anyway, I’ve not chosen these for weight reduction just corrosion resistance since from above they literally sit in a bath of road water.

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The bolts inside the car didn’t look much better

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Second problem, both inside the car on the rear mounts and at the front mounts was the surface for the bolt head to sit against was far from flat,

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I estimate some of those bolt heads on the front were literally at 45 degrees in relation to the fiberglass surface and as a result the subframe bolts were only clamping down on point contacts on all 4 corner sub frame mounts.
The options considered to rectify this was to file the bolt heads to match – tricky and a bit of a bodge.
Make tapered washers – again tricky to match the angles perfectly but will also put a side load on the bolt head as the 2 tapers force together again not ideal,
So I opted to machine the fiberglass instead by counter boring the top surface, now before you all recoil in horror I did take many measurements beforehand to check this was the best option and made the following points
The fiberglass in this area is massively thick anyway – over 12mm
The underside of each hole (gelcoat side) is flat to at least a 30mm diameter round each hole, it’s the top face that has become blurred due to multiple layers of matting so all I have done is reduce the excess matting down to the same thickness as that of the thinnest (remember still over 12mm) portions of the fiberglass and I’m only cutting a 20mm diameter counter bore.
so just technically truing up the uneven surface removing out the minimum of material, I did this by mounting a 20mm O.D grinding bit in to a 10mm bolt cut down with a 6mm hole drilled down its length then cut down

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with this passed through from the top and fitted in the drill chuck from underneath and pulled down the grinder gently removed the top surface just enough to flatten it off

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All done including the anti roll bar mounts

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then for the front bolts where the cut-outs were deeper I used 10mm thick stainless spacers instead of washers

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since they won’t dish in and raise the bolt heads up enough to grip with a socket, and for the inside on the floor where the discrepancy wasn’t as bad I got some 4mm thick 20mm O.D M8 stainless washers and reamed the hole out 10mm, these will do fine and wont lift the carpet as much in the footwells.

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For the underside of all mounts I got some M10 titanium flange nuts which did come in a shiny finish which I suppose won’t hurt,
So although the car has lasted nearly 20 years, now I know the bolts won’t rust away like the old ones did. So if I ever have to remove the subframes it won’t take a week to unbolt

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Engine earths and wiring

An ongoing job that is getting better and better as the weeks roll by is the general state of the engine bay wiring.
The 2 branches or loom that ran down each front inner wing had multiple issues ranging from crappy soldered joins – crappy un-soldered joins(?!) lengths of loom that were far too long and had excess loom taped up and stuffed into corners and a total lack of any cable supports whatsoever resulting in the loom branch running down the driver’s side wing being only supported by resting on the (very rusty and rough) hydragas unit causing the outer loom tape and strand insulation to wear through

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About a few months use away from a short and potentially a fire…

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So all excess loom was removed including the redundant rear screen washer pump and its associated plug and wiring from the fuse box, the plug came in handy to replace the front indicator plug that had been cut and taped into position,
All joins now soldered and 2 layers of heat shrink, I even removed this thing

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Dim dip resistor thingy, ive read about 4 descriptions of what it should do and to be honest non make sense, if I want my side lights on ill put my side lights on, If I want my dip beam on ill put my dip beam on, If I want my dip beam bulbs to look dim and dirty and like they are burned out I would fit some duff ones, but id rather keep the 2 separate thank you so that’s gone in the bin too with no ill effects.
I also decided to amalgamate the earth connection points on the rover loom to just terminate at a loop tag rather than a block connector and then a loop tag, the less joins the less chance of failure

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The entire loom now spiral wrapped and P clipped into place

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The whole effect is much neater and inspires more confidence. Especially considering the mess that was there before

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I even found a chock block connector coming from the main fuse board in the engine bay, a little shocked at this discovery I thought id find out what it was powering before repairing, thankfully it wasn’t anything too important just the main feed to the ECU and associated engine bay sensors……

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That taken care of I even gave the washer bottle a clean out as it was rather manky inside and out,

I know you can clean things like this out with rice and soap by giving it a good shake but we had no rice so I used pasta twists instead, well pasta is the same as rice anyway in as much is its what you eat when there’s nothing better to eat left in the house, so on that basis and a dash of bleach inside (and all over my jumper) the bottle came up like new, a good tip there

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The earths were a cause for concern, there appeared to be no logic or reason as to what got earthed where and how, for example there was a total of 3 separate wires running from the Neg of the battery to the passenger headlight mount bolt (used as the only earth point for that side of the car?) and yet each took a different route round the engine and engine bay to get there, the slightly bigger cable sending the earth wire from the passenger (battery) side to the driver’s side was not supported in any way just wrapped around various hoses and pipes on its way, something had to be done so I ripped it all out

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Assembled a collection of new earth cables

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I bought some of the best cables I could find

http://www.klaceycables.co.uk/shop/prod ... las-efglas

5 in total, the 4 thinnest are as thick as the original and the 1 thickest is twice as thick still, earths are very important as I’m sure you all appreciate, the 4 smaller cables feed the bulkhead where I’ve made an earth stud to feed all the rear of the car power and 2 go down each inner front wing, and lastly the 4th goes round to a convenient tapped hole on the far side of the cylinder head,

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the 5th and largest goes to the gearbox as per the original, all 5 cables were soldered into a new battery clamp making one solid connection

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All cables tucked up neatly

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I hate the thought using of fixing bolts as earth points with 4 or more loop tags on being used, just looks like trouble waiting to happen, so I made some bus bars out of 4mm thick brass with M6 csk brass bolts silver soldered in, once riveted and bonded to the inner wings the result looks neater and has a spare stud on each for future use.

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I even treated the new distributer low tension cables to a new distributor

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All the smoke now stays in the wires here it should  :D

Front grill

Ever since I bought the car I wanted to change the front end somehow since it tends to look a little “pouty” and the front end too narrow overall.
I had to pull out the mesh anyway while I was tending to the sub frame bolts so now was the chance, after much thinking around and doodling I figured my best option would be to fit a horizontally slatted grill in all orifices to unify the look and hopefully blend the 3 separate small grills within one bumper to look more like one larger grill broken up slightly with bits of bumper, if that makes sense?
After eyeing up many front ends in car parks (I looked at front grills on cars too) I came to the conclusion that mk5 Vauxhall Astra facelift lower bumper grills would do nicely, mainly because its slats run horizontally and the front goes to a point down the centreline a bit like the Midas so hopefully they will match.
(I really have got to stop bolting bits of Vauxhall on my car because one day it may just turn into a…….

…..I cant say it – the thought is too scary.)

I I ordered a plain cheap copy grill off ebay to butcher to see

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Works a treat but these need to be chrome to provide more definition to the linier effect I require so 3 brand new genuine Vauxhall grills were ordered (£ = don’t ask) and each one butchered to provide me with the grill of my dreams,

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the standard Vauxhall grill has 3 slats and I did try it in that configuration but it didn’t quite look right so I chopped up 2 grills to make a 4 slatted grill, the sections were bonded to some angle profile plastic.

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And I made some ally brackets bonded on inside the nose cone with M6 tapped holes so the grill can be removed again without it being bonded on – nice

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The side grills were done in the same way with angle plastic and ally brackets bonded to the nose cone,

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And careful positioning got their slats to line perfectly with the centre grill slats giving a more integrated look.
While mentioning the side grills, I could see that they technically do nothing much to cool the rad just send road water and dirt directly at the coil and alternator which is less than ideal,

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so using an offcut from my Quantum mud flaps I made I knocked up 2 blanking strips that once bonded to the rear of the ally angle brackets block off most of the opening just leaving a small opening in front of the only exposed portion of the rad, this may even increase airflow through the rad since the easier path for the air to take is now removed and should force air through, anyway no issues so far,

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and the finished grills look spot on.

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As for the angle at the front

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It was almost made for the job.
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby DavidL » Wed Dec 24, 2014 4:01 am

That looks excellent, I like what you've done with the front end. I've been trying to decide what to do with the front "grille" on my Gold since expanded metal is a bit boring - I'd looked at a lot of BMW MINI grilles since I work at a BMW dealership and some of their grille patterns would probably go quite well as a replacement.
My initial idea about reshaping the grille aperture into the traditional Aston Martin "mouth" shape is probably a bit silly and would possibly be more work than I can be bothered with. You've just shown me that better things can be achieved, with a little bit of ingenuity. Thanks! :)
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby Jin » Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:44 am

funny you should mention the aston grill, even before i found a car to buy i toyed with the idea and i still like it, only issue would be the bonnet hinges would need re-locating, i may still do it when ive tidied up the rest of the car....
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby DavidL » Wed Dec 24, 2014 5:36 pm

Hmm...
Not as awkward on the Gold, it would only involve changes to the nosecone. I might still think about it once the car is back on the road, but I don't even have a timescale for that. It's one of those ideas that has just stuck in my head. :)
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby Jin » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:42 am

Some more jobs ticked off the list, the doors have been a total PITA :D

To begin, I realised some time ago the driver’s side door glass sat noticeably lower at the top than the passenger side, more than just cosmetic it meant the seal didn’t seal due to the glass not touching it, a quick check with a rule saw the glass protrusion out of the door to be identical side to side thus ruling out a quick fix of just raising the door glass in the runner assuming that was the issue, the glass couldn’t go any higher anyway due to the front quarter piece where the mirror bolts to – time for a think.

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The problem would appear to be historical because old pictures of the car seem to show this issue also.
After much head scratching and measuring in as many ways as I could I found that on my car (the prototype) the driver’s side door shell is about 7mm shorter in height than the passenger side, thankfully the frame opening is identical to within 1mm so just a localised issue to the door.
Obviously this needed addressing, I couldn’t cut and section the door since the rear edge lined up with the rear quarter perfectly so the only real option was to raise the whole inner frame of the door by 7mm along with the glass, easy enough to work on the rear fixings, they just needed re-drilling but the fronts required a little more thought, the obvious one being the 7mm gap that would now sit at the base of the mirror quarter triangle, so I made up a 7mm alloy spacer,

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With that shaped and painted up
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and the rear top mount trimmed down slightly where it now poked through the top of the door shell

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that was those taken care of, and brings us neatly to the next big problem with my doors – the panel gaps, the front upper and rear lower on both doors sat outside the body line by a minimum of 5mm giving a minimum twist on each door shell of 10mm across the length!!!

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From what I have ascertained; the done thing is to shim the frame to bring it in line, the problem is that my frame is so out of alignment shimming using the original frame points would not rectify my problem (I’ll explain more later)
First job to find out why the frame / door have come out of sync since it left the factory, looking at old magazine pictures the doors were in line once
The rear looks to be an issue of the striker being fitted too high up in the door jamb resulting in more pressure being exerted by leverage at the base seal than the tiny amount at the top of the door shell, so a later job will be to re-locate the striker further down – best place would be exactly half way between top and bottom of the door shell
The front alignment is governed solely by the hinges; adjustment fore and aft is catered for by elongating the holes in the A pillar to allow the hinge to move but there appears to be no practical way to adjust them in and out? With the door removed and some measurements taken it would appear that due to either weight over time or the door flapping about tin the wind (more likely since they have no check strap) the top hinge takes the brunt and flexes enough down its length to pull it out of line, taking a comparison between the (presumably interchangeable) top and bottom hinge off the door showed them to be about 5mm out of line with each other – just the right amount I needed to bring the door back to shape, so with the top hinge in the vice and gently persuaded back to its original shape with various instruments of torture I could then enjoy the task of replacing them onto the door and door to the car approx. 20 times (I’m not kidding)

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until finally the fit and finish was perfect.

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All the rusty hinge mounting bolts replaced with stainless steel.
But what to do to prevent reoccurrence?, I’m sure I’m right as to why the hinges bend, the 3 bolts that hold the hinge to the door are in a straight line on the door albeit at an angle and the pivot is a fair distance away from them so any flexing of the door even gently; results in the hinges flexing and ultimately bending over time –you can confirm this by opening the door and placing a fingertip in the small gap between the door shell and hinge pivot, then open the door gently to its stop, even the slightest gentle push causes perceptible flex in the hinge.
The solution was to remove the doors (again) and drill though the back of the hinge close enough to the pivot but not so close as to drill into the tapered down section resulting loss of strength, then drill through the into the door shell from the hinge then remove hinge and enlarge the hole in the door shell to 5.5mm, the 4mm hole drilled into the hinge was tapped M5,

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I chose stainless bolts because they would need cutting down to fit

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and I chose CSK heads because the inside of the door shell and hinge arm are not parallel, so using an M8 stainless washer over the M5 csk head allows a nice bevel to allow the head to sit at an angle but still grip all way round its head.

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With that passed through from inside with a dab of Loctite to prevent rust in the cut thread of the hinge and nipped up inside the door, the bolt is enough to prevent any flex whatsoever, the feel is totally different when opening, rather than springing back closed they open to a firm satisfying stop, and as a bonus if you adjust the door hinges off the car to bring the outside of the door to a few mm from the outside of the car body the excess can be removed precisely by nipping up the screw in the door to provide a system of fine adjustment, this is why my alignment went from this

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To this

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So the good news was the 5mm offset in alignment was totally removed from the front of the door, the bad news is its now transferred to the rear bottom edge putting that out by over 10mm now – arse.
I could see that at some point somebody had “shimmed” the rear lower mount with what looked to be a liquorice allsort but the relatively small contact area had resulted in the fiberglass warping, maybe straightening this out would help bring the door back a bit?

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With the fixing removed the liquorice allsort turned out to be a chunk of plywood - oh well I ate it anyway,

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a new base for the bottom mount was made out of some 10mm thick aluminium 150mm long to help spread the load and straighten the fiberglass, also handy since it gave me a new option to mount the 7mm higher fixing point one on the driver’s door by tapping an M5 thread into the aluminium rather than drilling a through hole into the fibreglass door frame 7mm from the first hole which would weaken it for sure, so now both doors have secure rear frame mounts and hinges, and the straightening of the fiberglass door shell did help the rear lower alignment but not much, either way it is a vast imptovement


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to address the issue the rear lower frame mount needed to move towards the inside of the outer door skin from within, but they were already touching, I managed to trim about 3mm off each so I should shim the mount with washers but still nowhere near enough, the front mounts can’t move away from the inner door skin (needed to pull the rear edge inwards – you’ll all know what I mean) because the lower mount would need to pass through the door shell return edge to do so and there was no obvious way to adjust this.
feeling a bit desperate and since I had to rework the driver’s side anyway due to it being sat 7mm higher

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I took the decision to chop off both front lower mounts and start again they were in a right mess anyway.

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Working on the driver’s side, The first incarnation was to recycle the old bonnet buffer angle mounts and bolt them to the inner frame lower leg and then through the base of the door shell itself to provide a firm base to hold the frame secure, with the inside of the frame shimmed temporarily with Lego bricks

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(don’t laugh, they are hard wearing and adaptable)I could adapt the angle bracket to fit that gap, I got some stainless button head bolts and turned the head down to fit in the door gap and set to it, it was pretty successful on the driver’s side allowing the lower frame mount to move inwards (to the interior) enough to pull the back edge of the door flush with the body line and not upset the alignment of the rest of the frame within the door- it’s not as strong as it looks unfortunately.

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So with this done I moved to the passenger side, here things didn’t go so smoothly
The passenger side had further issues in as much as the glass didn’t touch the seal by means of sticking out to the side of the car too much

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with the bottom leg cut down to match the drivers side, I started shimming the remainder of the front leg away from the inside of the outer door skin more and more and more until it became apparent this wasn’t going to work, to get the rear of the door flush to the body I had so much shimming at the front edge that the frame became distorted, the glass wouldn’t slide up and down the runners and the front quarter triangle where the mirror fits was pushed out away from the door seal to totally the wrong position, it never left the factory like this but here I am unable to attain the panel fit the car once had, so feeling a bit pi$$ed off and desperate (and daft to be honest) I grabbed the back edge of the door and twisted it between my hands trying to force something into shape, along with making some worrying creaking noises I also noticed a couple of things, 1. the door twisted very easily with just 3 points of the frame mounted, 2. As the door was twisted in the direction required to achieve panel gap nirvana I noticed the frame lower leg didn’t move in and out like expected but instead it moved along the length of the door – only by around 15mm total but that catered for a large movement at the rear, more than enough, I don’t know why this should be, I’m sure there is some mathematical equation to explain it but I didn’t really care, I had a plan.
With the lower leg now chocked forcing it back down the length of the door , and after bit of trial and error I had the panel gap of my dreams and all other parameters correct – result

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Problem now was the force on the front leg was quite considerable, not helped by its length and not helped by the bottom fixing of it now having a potential pivot on it due to my first mounting modification, so a plan B was required
Since the requirement is to (relative to the inside of the outer door skin) pull the front leg down the door and push it away toward the interior I figured a new bracket would suffice along with a shorter leg to prevent it bending, so with the leg totally cut off just leaving the steel glass runner (as per the rear fixing)

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I made a plate from 10mm thick aluminium 300mm long x 50mm, more than enough to spread the load, this was then tapped M5 then had a 5mm thick angle bracket bolted to it,

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the plan being I can shim the steel glass runner relative to the angle bracket to push it further towards the rear of the door and thus correcting the door twist, and I can shim between the angle and base plate bonded to te door skin to correct any alignment at the top where the mirror base triangle fits – I hope I’ve explained that right
All bonded into position and once set, the frame is rock solid on the door and the door shows no tendency to twist or bend in any way

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The passenger side frame was also removed and re-sealed where it met the door just to keep things even, so after all that my doors are perfectly in line and stand very little chance of wandering out of line again – next job removing the old mirrors and making some new custom mirrors and tailor made mirror basses….
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J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby manifold » Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:27 am

Good job there. Those doors can be trying. I do have to say though these early frames were never satisfactory. The windows jam in different ways and the frames flex due to being fabricated out of ally. The newer steel channel ones which Alastair sells cure these problems. The windows stay true when winding up and down and the doors close with a clunk. The winder mechanism assembly is different layout too. I am going to do something similar for the coupe when I get round to it.
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Re: J171 NJO Cortez / 2+2 rebuild and modifications

Postby wolfie » Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:53 pm

Nice work on the window frame. 1 thing that bugs me more than anything is the frame on my gold convertible as I've never managed to get the doors completely flush and the window doesn't wind down, it kind of falls back to front unless I hold it. A crap design in my humble opinion
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