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justamin wrote:Thanks Hans, I will give it a day or two and hope one shows up. Otherwise I could also be getting the Jigsaw out. Mine were glass but had been direct glazed with a polymer.
DavidL wrote:Also, is the U-profile rubber strip necessary, or can the glass be bonded directly to the GRP shell?
DavidL wrote:When I bought my car, the rear windows had a strip of black insulating tape around the perimeter, on the outside, and I assumed that this had been applied to protect the sealant from UV.
However, the tape started to peel off, so I removed it altogether, to find - not sealant - but double sided foam tape holding the windows in place. Another job to add to the list.
Is it possible to apply UV protector etch primer to the glass retrospectively, or is that a factory-only job?
Also, is the U-profile rubber strip necessary, or can the glass be bonded directly to the GRP shell?
Hans Efde wrote:You need tape to keep the window in place until it is fully dry.
DavidL wrote:Hans Efde wrote:You need tape to keep the window in place until it is fully dry.
Is this to maintain the lateral positioning of the glass, or to maintain pressure on the adhesive while it cures?
Hans Efde wrote:DavidL wrote:Hans Efde wrote:You need tape to keep the window in place until it is fully dry.
Is this to maintain the lateral positioning of the glass, or to maintain pressure on the adhesive while it cures?
It's for positioning, else it may slide out of its position. You don't apply too much pressure, else you'll squeeze everything out. You apply light pressure when placing the window, just to be sure the kit adheres and has good contact with the window all around. Any voids will cause leaks (carglass companies even have ultasonic equipment to find these voids). Then leave it in place with tape. Any rubbish sticking out can be removed with white spirit while the kit hasn't dried. You can even smooth it, just like the silicon kit edges in the bathroom (if you ever placed tiles).
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