Evening all

[Maphet]

A quick update and a couple of questions.

I took it for the MOT today. All the stuff I had sorted out passed which was nice, but she failed on two things and got an advisory that I'm not too sure how to interpret. More of that in a moment, here's she is (almost) ready for the MOT:



The first fail was a split in one of the steering rack gaiters, which was a little bit of a pain as I had done the track rod end on that side and missed it. So that's all got to come apart again. The second is a bit more serious, or at least a little more of a pain: excessive play in one of the radius arms. I don't know whether it would be a good idea to pack it with grease to get it through for now (or even if it would work), but even if I get it through, it's a job that needs doing sooner rather than later. I have to confess that all of the rubber bits have clearly seen better days and so I suspect that I will have the whole front apart and do the lot at some point in the summer.

All in all, while I'm disappointed she failed, considering the condition of the electrics and general issues from standing, I'm pretty chuffed.

So, on to the questions:

Radius arms - I know I have two possible routes here: first I can buy a reconditioned one, which I assume simply bolts in with minimal swearing or I can go for the repair kit which I suspect will involve ingenuity and profanity in equal measure.

So here are some questions if anyone would be kind enough to have a go at answering them:

Does the repair kit avoids having to strip out the suspension and brakes as the radius arm remains effectively in place? I'm mostly trying to avoid needing to pump up the hydragas, unless there is a way around having to.

Is there a best way of approaching the radius arms and if so, roughly, what is it?

Finally, the MOT tester was a bit bemused that both radius arms appeared to have pretty well identical free travel, without apparent damping, for the bottom ten degrees of travel when the Midas was jacked right up. After a bit of a conference and reading the MOT manual they decided that it was ok but gave an advisory just in case. I have no idea if this is normal, worrying or a well understood issue. They tested the suspension for everything else when under load and thought it was otherwise faultless. Can anyone explain this so I know what to say next time and or can rectify a problem?

On the road, the Midas' suspension was a little harsher than I expected over bumps, but otherwise tight and tidy (surprising really given the radius arm!). The engine sounded and felt great, if a bit fluffy, but I haven't even started to play with that yet. I'd forgotten how much I like a four speed box. My overall impression was that it felt far more vintage than I expected, but I don't think that is necessarily a bad thing. However, there was one glorious moment when I braked smoothly into a small roundabout, picked a tight line and powered out of the other side in second that gave me a feel for just how nice this could be...

Any answers, comments or advice very gratefully received.

[manifold]

Hi Maphet,

I would get the repair kit. I don't thinking grease packing is going to do much. Its relatively easy to fit the kit once you have removed the arm. Means disconnecting the brakes as well I'm afraid. The main thing to be aware of is making sure that the inner and outer needle rollers are inline. I used to do this by drifting them in while having an old shaft in place. If you don't do this they will wear out again in no time. Don't forget to fit the grease tube or you will fill the casting full of grease!

If yours is a hydrogas car then yes you will have to get the hydrogas fluid evacuated and replaced after the repair has been done. Check you have the bump stops in place if you need to drive it to a garage to get it refilled or your wheels will be dragging on the arches.

The majority of Midas Gold cars (inc. Convertibles) are using springs as per Harolds original design at the rear. They seem to start having hydrogas fitted at some point after GTM took over production. Some would argue for hydrogas and some against it, preferring coilovers. I'm in the coilover camp myself.

I don't use metro radius arms anymore. I had some 2 inch tube welded up into radius arms and connect to a simple beam off a pair of adjustable rose joints. Alan and Atchi are doing something trick with an alternative route....and there is a nice tricky modern floating beam axle around on here too somewhere.

Happy Midas Motoring!

[Hans Efde]

Last year my car failed the MOT on the front suspension as well. Recently I took the front suspension apart and found the needle bearings completely shot. The garage had tried to get the play out with grease but it wasn't possible (no wonder when I looked at the bearings, the needles just fell out). I already have the revision sets ready (these are quite cheap on Ebay and contain all parts) and they are going in today (thanks for the tips David).
I took everything apart because I have a new subframe and am installing Watson springs instead of the hydragas (another great tech tip from David). But it is possible to overhaul the upper arm without disconnecting the brakes. Split the upper joint and secure the hub with brake caliper and disc with a piece of rope to prevent stretching the brake lines. It's mentioned in the Haynes as well.
Concerning the bottom 10 degrees travel, below the suspension arm there should be socalled rebound buffers, p/n 2A4267. I just bought them for my car as well, plenty of these on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... nkw=2a4267

[manifold]

Hi Hans,

Always happy to help .

Are these radius arms the rear radius arms or the front upper suspension arms Maphet?

If its the from ones, like Hans said you can ties the brake calliper/disc assembly somewhere but you will still need to evacuate the hydrogas from the front hydrogas spheres (if fitted!) to get the pressure off the pin.

As Hans said, get the rebound buffers replaced if shot. They are always dropping to bits (if still fitted!). You can get them in silicone these days.

[Maphet]

Thanks David and Hans for all the really helpful tips. I should have said, it's the rear ones. All the rebound buffers on ebay seem to be for the front. Am I missing something?

I have done all the other bits now. I didn't get to test it as the garage had no spaces, I have one booked for first thing tomorrow, but I jacked it up and felt the play as I added grease and it does seem to have improved it somewhat. However, even if it does pass, it seems to be a job for the very near future. I phoned around the local area for places that refilled hydragas and the service seems both uncommon and pricey these days, so I think springs are definitely the way forward.

I did a quick search for spring conversions but all the ones I saw seemed to assume a level of basic knowledge about the setup I don't have. If I'm going to be messing around with hydragas to do the radius arm and there is a simple spring conversion then that seems the obvious thing to do. I assume that there is a thread about this that explains all, can anyone point it at me, or simply tell me what to get from where and where to put it!

I think I'm going to stick with the standard setup for now, until I get to know the car...

Thanks very much again, this is very kind and helpful of you all.

[Stuart]

This thread should help viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1422&start=10

download the forum magazine to see Alan's article as well, there's a link in the thread.

or here http://midas.orba-design.com/ mcf01

[manifold]

Hi Maphet.

There are some rebound buffers at the rear too....they are little round rubber circles that fit behind the knuckle joint of the hydrogas sphere if I remember correctly.

Something to give you ideas: http://midasforum.dyndns.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=665&p=2482&hilit=rose+joint&sid=1dc7953455e156c279f9d1ce2ef3bcb2#p2482

[Maphet]

Again, thanks everyone, I'm sorry to be quite so clueless.

Oh Lord! I suddenly realise just how far from the big league I am. That's some serious engineering going on there and way way beyond me!
Does anyone offer one of the variations of the bracket for sale? More to the point, and I suddenly feel like a heathen for asking, but, if I were scouring a breaker's yard looking for a half decent set of appropriate coilovers, which cars might I find them on, or is this a Midas specific part?

I'll certainly be looking out for the rebound buffers for the rear as the amount of travel was a little alarming and could make a humpback bridge a whole new experience!

[Moneypit]

I've got hydogas all round on mine too.Can act very strange sometimes
It was very low when I got it and tended to bottom out regularly. I managed to borrow an old pump of a local garage for the price of a pint!Even though he'd not used it for the last 10 years I couldn't persuade him to sell it
I'd eventually like to put coil overs on and will probably make something for the rear along the lines of those Hans pictured the other day.I'm not sure what the tops are mounted to though?
For the front i'd like to build some bolt on towers (already talked about on here) but too many other jobs on to consider doing it yet.Also it's my daily drive and can't afford to have it off the road for any length of time.
Some people on here have done some major work and at times I too feel a little lowly.

[Maphet]

Just a quick note, as I have a new term starting tomorrow, but the Midas passed yesterday. As it turned out, the greased radius arm was absolutely solid with no play whatsoever, which was a bit of a surprise. To celebrate, I drove her down to Windsor and took this photo (with lint in the corner of my phone's camera!)



Thanks everyone for all the help so far, I will be back once the new term settles down.