Heated front Windscreen project for Mk 1, 2 & 3 (Group Buy)

[Jon]

I fitted mine back in June as the original screen wasn't going to pass an MoT, but have yet to wire it.
Are the two panels supposed to be wired in series or parallel?

[Rich]

I just ran two power lines from the fusebox and ran two earth lines.

[Geoff Butcher]

Unfortunately there's no way to attach extra wires to my fusebox. However there is an auxiliary fusebox under the bonnet which someone put in to run the lights, but of course it's not ignition-controlled. Anyone know the screen's current consumption?

[Rich]

Why not have your ignition switched live operate a relay providing power to your auxiliary fusebox? Or just wire the fusebox directly from the switched live? I don't know what power the screen is consuming but I don't notice any drop at idle when I switch it on.

[johnnyfixit]

my heated rear screen switch lights up when I press the button and can't see why the front wind screen cant'be linked to it ,no extra switches or use whats there was going to use it to over run the fan on the rad ??only one left in the north east so might as well go for it

[Geoff Butcher]

OK as long as double the current doesn't melt the switch or blow the fuse!

[Alan D.]

Hello All,

George in our little northern group fitted his screen some time ago, so I asked him to send me a few details of the task. George uses his Mk 3 coupé as his families second and every day car. His problem was on his journey to work. was that the car never got hot enough to clear the screen. But this all changed when he fitted his HFS. The screen now clears in seconds!

Below is George's report on the fitting!

Windscreen
I fed my wires vertically down through the windscreen rubber and dashboard at about 6mm beyond the silver tags on the screen. This way I hope that when the screen has to come out a straight lift will take the wire tails out. I temporarily installed the base of the screen in the rubber in the car without stressing the wires to mark the hole positions then used the punch (middle size of the 3 I had, but the biggest might be better) to make clean holes through the rubber. I kept the punch vertical and to the interior side of the windscreen recess to minimise cutting through rubber web in order to miss the fibreglass flange. This was successful on the inboard pair of holes but I just caught the fibreglass flange on the outers which meant a bit of filing so the wires don't chaff (a perfectionist would also use grommets through the dash board holes). Once the rubbers were punctured I used these holes as a guide to drill the dash but found on fully fitting the screen that these needed slotting as something stretches.

I roughly followed Charlie's screen fitting guide from spring 2007 TGT. No string but lots of swarfega and a sharpened toothbrush handle. I used plenty sealant and it seems waterproof to date.

Electrics
I used two, 30 amp-circuits. Each feeds one side of the windscreen through individual relays and heavy gauge wire.
I have 2 weather proof 30A fuse holders at the under bonnet battery cables (coming from my rear mounted battery) feeding the 30A relays which are mounted under the dash within reach of the black wires from the windscreen. I have also brought the windscreen earths back to these battery connections in heavy gauge wire as I don't have a free heavy duty earthing point under my dash.
My relays are switched by a timer (0 - 15minutes 12v Maplins kit) which is fed through a 12v regulator (Maplins) - car voltage can be >14v, from a fused live feed from the ignition switch. The 3 way switch is the sprung return type - down for on, up for off and the L.E.D. is fed from the timer.
You could of course just switch the relays with a simple on/off switch fed from a fused live feed from the ignition switch without the timer setup but all cars with this style of screen seem to feature timer cut-offs.
The wiring pdf gives a basic outline.

My final modification is another relay in the oil pressure warning light circuit which prevents the timer being powered if the light is on, i.e. stalled engine or ignition turned on for whatever reason without engine running - I haven't mastered this yet as it switches the timer on due to the charging surge after starting.

Check it all thoroughly. I may have missed something or you can improve on what I did. Usual disclaimer, if you fry the car or break the windscreen it isn’t my fault.

Regards

George




There is a wiring diagram in PDF form but I don't seem to be able to add it to this post. I'll send it via email to David, to see if he can add it to this post.




Click on the link below, then click slide show and then stop and start the pictures at will!

http://picasaweb.google.com/alandonowho ... directlink

All the credit for this work must go to George, I'm just adding it to the forum

Regards Alan D.

[Alan D.]

Well here we go again,

I've had a few requests for heated front windscreens, but I no longer have any left! So this would mean doing a new order. I would need about 10-15 screens to make up an order. These screens are specially made and imported from Italy!

The few people who have fitted and reported back on the HFS, all seem to be very pleased! Making the car more drivable and giving their cars that modern feel!

I was also thinking about reviving the heated rear hatch idea as well. These are to be imported from Spain. Neither of these front or rear screens are available any more as far as I am aware!

I need three rear hatches,so that's a start!

I would need to get up to date prices as it is a few years since we did this project, so before I go to the trouble of getting prices, I would just like to gauge interest! So PM me if yo are interested, with no commitment until we get all of the information.

Don't procrastinate!

Regards Alan

[manifold]

good stuff Alan. I'm sure you should get some takers. After all, try getting a new 126 screen anywhere even without a heated element!

[Alan D.]

Two new people have expressed interest

alan