My experience of bad turnover starting on A series engines is always due to the following.
Poor Battery. If you get about 5 years out of one your doing well. Keep them topped up (charge and fluids) as much as possible to extend life. Trickle charge if stood about. Dont let them go flat. Sure way to kill them...remember that they lose charge everyday whether there is a draw on them or not. I cant remember the formula for this but there is one. A kill switch wont stop it.
Poor solenoid.
Poor starter:
Bendix on starter sticking. Due to wear. Lubrication tends to make them stick more with bits of the clutch mixing with the lube. Change Starter or Bendix.
Teeth on Bendix on starter or teeth on starter ring on flywheel missing/worn.
Phospher Bronze bearings in either end of starter are worn, causing the windings to touch the sides of starter housing when power applied. The result is a hot starter using many amps....but not turning start....in effect seizing it up. happened to me a few times....especially with the inertia starters. It is possible to replace these bushes sometimes, if you can find them.
Brushes in starter buggered.
The 2 bolts holding starter on need greasing and nipping up....if not nipped up they can cause poor earth or starter to not engage with the flywheel square one. Abrade round the mating face on both sides where starter meets clutch housing.
Poor earth to solenoid (either side)
Poor battery cable. If battery cable ahs been extended into boot (like mine) make sure the cable is 32mm squared (similar rating as car body). Make sure the battery cable is in good order....if its deteriorated it wont allow the amps to draw through. Potentially causing a fire as heat is generated in cable instead. Theres a voltage drop going along the cable the further the cable travels. Hence the reasons for as fat a cable as possible to reduce this.
Poor earth connections on battery cable at either end.
Hot or Seized engine.
Feel free to add your experiences to this.
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