No Spark...

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No Spark...

Postby lankyjames » Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:04 pm

Well I've just replaced the coil on the Midas as I left mine on overnight....yes I don't have it on a switched live and I knew this would bite me in the arse!

Replaced coil and still no spark, what are the odds I am looking at a new dizzy / electronic module?

Alternatively, can anyone advise on a suitable new replacement? (and while I would like a megaspark(?) I cannot afford such at the moment!)
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Re: No Spark...

Postby Geoff Butcher » Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:13 pm

So how do you stop the engine? :o
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Re: No Spark...

Postby lankyjames » Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:17 pm

Geoff Butcher wrote:So how do you stop the engine? :o


Pull the keys out? Wiggle them at your passenger (while the car still runs)...then flick the switch.

I know, I know, it's hilarious and completely unsafe / an mot failure.

I'll be damned that a switch live doesn't exist on my fuse box - they all go 0v during cranking, that needs explaining also.
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Re: No Spark...

Postby Hans Efde » Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:11 am

I am puzzled by this problem. It is a very simple system. Logically it can only be:
a) the battery, check voltage drop during starting, use a charger to make sure it's capacity is full
b) the coil, this one is difficult to check, I have a spare, a blue Bosch. But it seems many types exist and I seem to have the wrong one concerning resistance. It gets extremely hot within a few miles and then cuts out. When cooled down it works again. For the moment I have my Aldon firestarter again in.
c) the distributor and module. The Lucas module is also a pain, since it's difficult to check. If you can find an old mechanical dizzy for troubleshooting, that would make life easier.
d) wiring. Problems can occur when a connection has a high resistance. F.e. during my starting attempts last year I found the solenoid of the starter motor smoking/hot. I hadn't fastened the connection properly, causing a high resistance. Which eats amps and causes the heat build up. Therefore check all high power connections, battery, starter motor, coil.
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Re: No Spark...

Postby lankyjames » Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:50 am

Hans Efde wrote:I am puzzled by this problem. It is a very simple system. Logically it can only be:
a) the battery, check voltage drop during starting, use a charger to make sure it's capacity is full
b) the coil, this one is difficult to check, I have a spare, a blue Bosch. But it seems many types exist and I seem to have the wrong one concerning resistance. It gets extremely hot within a few miles and then cuts out. When cooled down it works again. For the moment I have my Aldon firestarter again in.
c) the distributor and module. The Lucas module is also a pain, since it's difficult to check. If you can find an old mechanical dizzy for troubleshooting, that would make life easier.
d) wiring. Problems can occur when a connection has a high resistance. F.e. during my starting attempts last year I found the solenoid of the starter motor smoking/hot. I hadn't fastened the connection properly, causing a high resistance. Which eats amps and causes the heat build up. Therefore check all high power connections, battery, starter motor, coil.


Your hot coil sounds like a ballast coil on a 12v wiring system?

Thanks for the list of things to check, I believe its probably the electronic module on the distributor. Investigations continue.

a) battery > turns engine over quite freely and has plenty of juice.
b) coil I have just replaced, so hoping that isn't the fault, it's definitely the correct type (12v no ballast)
c) hard to test, I did have the issue mentioned on facebook regarding the top-end revs cutting flat - which is incidentally the last time the car drove....and I have had issues with it cutting out before very recently, there may be a pattern here!
d) wiring is another thing I will need to have a poke around, I need to replace the earth cable but that is just my nit-picking
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Re: No Spark...

Postby lankyjames » Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:13 pm

Issue now solved, much thanks to John!

Found fault was based solely on the 'new' fuse box I had replaced had a connector across blades 1 and 3, which was alternator power and the coil +ve. Chopped that off the back, put the white cable back on the coil +ve and removed the stupid coil power switch and it works...just as it should!

Now to solve a flat rear tyre and enjoy it! (until mot time!)
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Re: No Spark...

Postby Jvr19630 » Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:23 pm

No problem James and thanks for the fish and chips
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