Geoff Butcher wrote:What gets me is that the brakes have been OK, if not great, for the last ten years, and I don't see how my last action of changing a rear cylinder can have led to all this aggravation. I've refitted the previous master which was all right for two years and looked perfect when I dismantled it. I have about 9 or 10 mm of free play at the pedal. Here's what they look like, note novel clutch mod:
I've just about run out of ideas now, so I may try what Hans has done, although as the servo isn't part of the hydraulic system I don't hold out any great hopes. Don't suppose you have the dimensions for the parts, Hans?
Yes, I can make a sketch of the baseplate. That's basically the only thing you need to have made. The clevis was bought in a nautic shop, the pin is the one from the car. The push rod is homemade. It's made from a long bolt. I cut the head off and used a grinder to thin it. It's critical in adjustment, but I always could thin the nut if necessary.
I removed the brake servo, the m/c can be moved out of the way if the brake lines are not too brittle. Then gently I put he m/c in its new spot and carefully rearranged the brake lines. I had to adjust the push rod a few times until I felt a slight resistance when putting the m/c in place. So there is a constant tension on the primary piston, i.e. no play and instant action.
That said, I think your brake pedal is really close to the floor. I have to check mine and measure the distance between the pedal and the floor. I recall more room on my car but I can be mistaken. I thought it was standard but now I am confused.