Still got brake problems!

[Geoff Butcher]

I didn't know they had m/c without the stop pin, it's not mentioned in the Haynes, possibly from another type Austin?.

No, that's what you get when you ask for a cylinder for a post-85 Metro. It's the only type I've ever had on my Mk3.

[mikeeskriett]

Possibly a design change when the Rover Metro came out or a cost saving measure in production for the after market? The factory manual shows the same set up as the Haynes book of lies.

[Hans Efde]

Possibly a design change when the Rover Metro came out or a cost saving measure in production for the after market? The factory manual shows the same set up as the Haynes book of lies.

You buy nice Chinese leplica yes? Nice plice, only fol you!
Just kidding, but they made a lot of crap the last years. I noticed on my car that on the left side I had a metal door handle and on the right side a later version made from plastic. Luckily I was able to get a metal one via a well known auction site (as they always say on Wheeler Dealers). But for how long?

[Geoff Butcher]

Well, I'm twenty quid worse off but no better off. I Eezibled it all round, only got a few microbubbles out so I did it again, pumping at the same time. If anything it seems worse. At least the fluid spillage wasn't too bad, but this is getting beyond a joke.

[manifold]

I havent read your earlier posts Geoff.....did you say you shorten the pedal 2 inches?

Its definitely a requirement....even more so on the convertibles with the foam sandwich floor....

[Hans Efde]

I havent read your earlier posts Geoff.....did you say you shorten the pedal 2 inches?

Its definitely a requirement....even more so on the convertibles with the foam sandwich floor....

A reworked pedal increases the travel, but within an inch it should feel solid. Without the brake servo mine moves perhaps 2 inch maximum.
Apparently Geoff has a bigger problem. I am afraid he has to start from the beginning with the trouble shooting. In my experience that means starting with an inspection to see if the pedal travel is properly transferred to the vertical motion of the primary piston. Also the starting position of the primary piston must be found.
If it is working correctly, than he can move further along the trouble shooting tree.

[manifold]

Very true Hans.

One of the things your setup and mine is that we have dialed out the 'slop' in the brake pedal.

I have a turnbuckle on the back of my pedal acting on the balance bar lever which I lock off just before the brakes start to nip, as well as the fine adjusters on both of the master cylinders. I adjusted it by putting it on until brakes bound, then backed them off until they were free. ...then adjusting out on the road to fine tune.

You have something similar, although more static, doing basically the same job.

I dont see the point of the vacuum in a car the size of a midas. Just another thing to take out of the equation. I certainly dont think I need lead boots to stop the car without it.

[Geoff Butcher]

What gets me is that the brakes have been OK, if not great, for the last ten years, and I don't see how my last action of changing a rear cylinder can have led to all this aggravation. I've refitted the previous master which was all right for two years and looked perfect when I dismantled it. I have about 9 or 10 mm of free play at the pedal. Here's what they look like, note novel clutch mod:



I've just about run out of ideas now, so I may try what Hans has done, although as the servo isn't part of the hydraulic system I don't hold out any great hopes. Don't suppose you have the dimensions for the parts, Hans?

[manifold]

Geoff.....thats not how I shortened my pedal (and double welded as its a critical component).

Mine is shortened on the vertical plane. so that the pedal has further travel before it hits the floor. Clutch is shortened to match (on one of my cars).

Your pedal appears to be shortened on the bottom section up to the rubber pedal. It will not make any difference in travel there and will hit floor in roughly the same point.

[Hans Efde]

What gets me is that the brakes have been OK, if not great, for the last ten years, and I don't see how my last action of changing a rear cylinder can have led to all this aggravation. I've refitted the previous master which was all right for two years and looked perfect when I dismantled it. I have about 9 or 10 mm of free play at the pedal. Here's what they look like, note novel clutch mod:

I've just about run out of ideas now, so I may try what Hans has done, although as the servo isn't part of the hydraulic system I don't hold out any great hopes. Don't suppose you have the dimensions for the parts, Hans?

Yes, I can make a sketch of the baseplate. That's basically the only thing you need to have made. The clevis was bought in a nautic shop, the pin is the one from the car. The push rod is homemade. It's made from a long bolt. I cut the head off and used a grinder to thin it. It's critical in adjustment, but I always could thin the nut if necessary.
I removed the brake servo, the m/c can be moved out of the way if the brake lines are not too brittle. Then gently I put he m/c in its new spot and carefully rearranged the brake lines. I had to adjust the push rod a few times until I felt a slight resistance when putting the m/c in place. So there is a constant tension on the primary piston, i.e. no play and instant action.
That said, I think your brake pedal is really close to the floor. I have to check mine and measure the distance between the pedal and the floor. I recall more room on my car but I can be mistaken. I thought it was standard but now I am confused.