Page 1 of 2

Rear dampers

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:58 pm
by Geoff Butcher
Apparently the Spax rear dampers are no longer available. Has anyone used Protech? Someone called 'Midas' on the Turbominis forum ordered some in a group buy a while ago. Or any alternatives?

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:02 pm
by Rich
That would be me Geoff. They work well and are really nicely made, the specs I ordered are on here somewhere.

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:04 pm
by Rich

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:58 am
by DavidL
Brilliant, thanks. I'm needing to get a pair too, and I'd.decided on those - then put it off for some forgotten reason...

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:37 am
by Rich
Well worth it, there's the usual problem with the top stem not being long enough for the glass body so you end up cutting bushes down.

Since fitting the rear undertray I would occasionally get a small grounding on full bump, if I was regularly running 2 up I'd be tempted to get slightly heavier springs, maybe 120-130s.

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 8:00 pm
by Geoff Butcher
Thanks, Rich

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 11:34 pm
by Rich
No problem Geoff, glad to be of help.

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:58 pm
by Geoff Butcher
I'm a bit confused about this bottom mounting - do I gather that not all cars have the same? I have a bolt which presumably goes into a captive nut, but I haven't yet got the bolt out. A 5/8"/16mm socket won't go on and a 11/16"/17mm seems dangerously loose. Strange...

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:20 pm
by DavidL
I think there are at least two different mounts, the original Midas one, and then possibly the GTM one? The ones I have are like a box section open along the top, the damper bottom eye sits in it and a bolt goes through into a captive nut. Perfect rust traps.
Mine wouldn't move either, I had to strip the brakes them remove the three through bolts from inside the drum, remove the damper top mount, then attack the remaining mass of rust (ie, bracket and bottom eye of damper) in the vice. No idea what the bolt head sizes were originally, but the socket or spanner that did the original tightening wouldn't have fitted - I resorted to hammering on a six point socket and using an airgun on them to get any movement at all.

Re: Rear dampers

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:25 pm
by Stuart
Geoff Butcher wrote:I'm a bit confused about this bottom mounting - do I gather that not all cars have the same? I have a bolt which presumably goes into a captive nut, but I haven't yet got the bolt out. A 5/8"/16mm socket won't go on and a 11/16"/17mm seems dangerously loose. Strange...


a bit of corrosion then.