Front suspension, need to drain the suspension?

[minisweden]

I am about to take the driveshaft out on the drivers side to fix a leaky oilseal. On a Mini I would be able to take the fron hub off without having to drain the hydrolastic or compress the rubber cone. What is the case on the Metro assy? Do I need to bleed the suspension and have to pump it up again? Hope not! Thanks/Ola

[manifold]

No you will not need to bleed hydrogas.

Just remove top balljoint with a ball joint splitter then drive shaft will slide out (persuaded with a large screw driver). Make sure you drain oil first !

Im sure you knew that bit.

[minisweden]

Dont think there´s much oil left cause of the seal Anyway, good news that I do not need to pump it up again. Now I hope that the front undertray does not have to be removed.

By the way. I have a homemade tool for pumping up a hydrolastic vehicle. Could this possibly be used on the hydragas units if I ever need to top them up?

[Stuart]

I'd be amazed if you can do it without taking the undertray off!

Your home-made tool should work just fine, the fluid side is just the same.

Watch the ball-joint gaitors. the rubber on them perishes quickly for some reason, others have found the same even with less than one year old parts. If you have to replace a ball-joint be advised they are the early model Metro type with a smaller taper-pin, (stocked by minispares) later model ones are much bigger.

If I was doing the job I would take the whole hub off the driveshaft first, but as David said it could be possible with just the top ball-joint released, I'm not so sure though.

Good luck

[Hans Efde]

I've done it as David describes and it's a piece of cake. Just have a few pieces of timber and an assistent ready. You'll need the timber to put between the front suspension and pull it downwards. The assistent can then pull back the upper joint. Just take care not to damage the brake lines when you put aside the hub and brake.
One thing about the leaking oil seal from the diff. You may have leakage because of a hardened oil seal and it's simple to replace. But there is a bronze bush inside the diff cover. Some play on the drive shaft is allowed, but usually the play is too big for the oil seal and this causes the leakage. So if you notice too much radial play, it's better to replace the whole cover with seal and bush.
The drive shaft should pull out easily, but it's possible you need 2 large screwdrivers (or tyre fitters) to pop it out.

[manifold]

Hi Ola.

Yes Stuarts right. not sure about front undertray being in the way, as I have never fitted mine (to keep temps down) so I don't know what the protrusion is.

Might be something you may need to do. Im pretty sure you should be able to remove driveshaft with just removing upper ball joint though..... as that it what i always to when I take the engine out the top. Never bottoms balljoints too unless I'm replacing them, or pressing new wheel bearings in.

I've never removed the whole subframe to get the engine out like some people do. Call me lazy but I didn't fancy having to re-bleed the brakes, do the steering etc once the engine/subframe assembly was put back in.

[manifold]

Oh...I almost forgot.

Another tip.

Jack both front sides up and remove both wheels.

That way the ant roll bar is working for you....ie drooping....not against you.

Cheers,

David

[minisweden]

Well I am not very fast in my work. Just got round to do this last weekend. Jacked up both sides at the front, removed the wheels and having the anti roll bar working with med as I was adviced. No problem loosening the top balljoint, but, I can´t lever the suspension arms apart enough to pull the top balljoint from the top arm. I´ve put the heater on in my garage tonight and will go out to try it again this evening. But it feels like I may have to depressurise the suspension?

[manifold]

Hi Ola,

Might be worth putting a piece of 3"x2" long piece of timber between rollbar and subframe then push down.

If that doesnt work then you might need to depressure the hydrogas units a bit.

[Stuart]

Yes, I used a 3ft steel bar to lever the bottom arm down to release the top ball-joint. You could also remove the top arm buffer and put a piece of wood in there to stop the top arm dropping down so much.