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Engine removal from the top

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:13 pm
by Hans Efde
A regular discussed item is how to remove the engine from a Midas. I prefer to lift it out.
Just strip it from all the components:
engine stripped.jpg
engine stripped.jpg (143.85 KiB) Viewed 7666 times

Then I used a chain hoist (25 euro, cheaper than renting an engine crane) and a lifting bar that my brother had made. Carefully lift it out the engine bay and it should go out without any interference or damage:
engine out.jpg
engine out.jpg (140.01 KiB) Viewed 7666 times

Now I have to bring it to the engine specialist and wait for his verdict. Fingers crossed!

Re: Engine removal from the top

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:26 pm
by manifold
I agree engine is a lot easier to get out the top. Just twist it as it pops out and make sure the clutch cover and starter is off (for more clearance).

I take the y piece mounting off too just before it comes out.

Looks like you've a light weight flywheel peeping in there.

Re: Engine removal from the top

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:29 am
by Hans Efde
I got it out with the Y-piece and clutch cover installed as well. I wondered if I needed to remove the water pump, but it wasn't necessary. I could have left the oil filter and turbo in place as well, but removed them to prevent damage. With 2 pair hands and eyes and slowly lifting and moving the engine about it's possible to get it in this state past the headlights. Yes the clutch is lightened, it revs like a bike engine.

Re: Engine removal from the top

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:05 pm
by manifold
You did well getting it out without removing stuff :)

Its not too bad for me fortunately, I can do it myself, having the crane to hand (best investment I made).

Looks like some 1.5 ratio rockers on there too :).

Is your heater bypassed?

Fingers crossed for you that your engines OK.

Cheers,

David

Re: Engine removal from the top

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:58 pm
by Hans Efde
Hi David,
Yes 1.5 rockers, but not with the rollers at the end. They are better. The ones I have seem to wear out quickly. I hope they last another 10000 miles before they are gone.
I don't understand your question about the heater bypass. The plumbing is all standard. Takeoff point at the RH top of the block, return of the heater to the 3way hose at the waterpump. Is there another/better way?