Metro heater operation and cortez headlights

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Metro heater operation and cortez headlights

Postby Jin » Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:16 pm

Hi folks, been busy working away on many projects simultaneously, one of which is the interior, the dash is almost done so I've turned my attention to the heating, I plan to replace the few origional vents for matching individual controllable circular vents since the directional controller lever has no say on where the air blows out of anyway.

But

The hot / cold lever also has a puzzling mode of operation

From the 4 available outlets from the heater box the hot / cold lever only effects the demister outlets which is a shame since these are the 2i wish to blank off, the remaining 3 outlets ( bottom / centre and top) all blow cold no matter what lever is in what position.

Is this normal?
Just asking before I dive in and rip the heater box out.


Secondly how are the rover 100 style headlights held in the cortez?
Mine are just resting on the bumper top and held with one steel strip on the top, it works but looks tatty.
I've two brand new lights ready to drop in that have also had a special touch and would like them fitted wel.

As always any help much appreciated

Cheers
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Re: Metro heater operation and cortez headlights

Postby ACourtney » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:17 am

I'm afraid that you are going to need to drop the heater unit out to investigate it. The cable operates on a couple of flaps inside the unit, but often they haven't been adjusted to make sure that they are operating properly. So it is not unusual to find they have little effect. Furthermore, it is fairly common to find that the ducting connections had been sealed with gaffer tape that has long since disintegrated so getting any flow as far as the vents is an achievement. If I recall correctly, the central outlet, which comes out at knee level only flows cold air. I always thought this would have been better directed upwards into face level vents as that is where you want fresh air.
Basically you will need to disconnect the heater matrix and drop the unit down so you can check that the flaps are operating and sealing properly. It is probably worth flushing out the heater matrix, or even replacing it with a new one, whilst you are at it. A matrix with a good water flow can produce good heat, but more often than not they are half blocked up with silt.

The bottom of the Cortez headlights sit in a groove in the front bumper and this acts as a pivot point. I have come across a couple of cars where the builder has bonded the bottom of the headlight in place, which defeats the object of the design which is to allow the headlight to be easily adjusted, or removed. It is better to put a couple of drain holes into the groove to stop water from collecting. Normally there is just one right angle bracket from the back of the headlight to the inside of the wing and the bolt between this and the headlight is packed out with washers to set the angle. On the earlier 2+2 models, with the squarer Rover Metro headlights, I have seen a second bracket running from a stud on the back of the headlight to the radiator top bracket. I guess this was harder to achieve on the rounder Rover 100 headlight and probably thought to be unnecessary. I've never had a problem with the original arrangement, but you have to accept that removing the front bumper will throw the headlight adjustment out.
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Re: Metro heater operation and cortez headlights

Postby Jin » Mon Dec 07, 2015 11:28 am

i only just noticed this reply

thank you for taking the time to do so

cheers
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