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Just wondered if anyone has ever installed cam bearings in their engine.

I'm planning on fitting them with a 8mm diameter long threaded bolt right through the block, a couple of large steel washers slightly wider than the bearings and a steel socket (x3) exactly the same diameter as each of the cam bearings (they are all different diameters).

Anyone have any other suggestions, other than engineers shop. Im assuming they just use a press, except for the middle one.

Everywhere I look seems to make it a deal to go to a machine shop, but having pressed out the old ones I can see that these dont need line boring as they are already prefinished.

Cheers.

David

Hi David, years ago I had the local engine shop fit new cam bearings to an early 1071cc block. There was no way the cam would go in, despite several hours of good old fashioned hand scraping and polishing. Somehow the bearings were "swelled" up. I lost heart with this block and fitted a s/h 1300 with a 286 Piper, a head I'd ported myself, lcb and 45 Dellorto. This went like stink, was more than a match for many so called specialist built engines, and was hammered for nearly 60k, which included many rallies. It was a real cheapo. I did not change the cam bearings when the Piper was fitted.
Several years later, a friend offered to sort out the 1071 block, and with made up spigoted "drifts", whacked the old ones out and the new ones in and no line boring. He did loads of blocks after that! Seriously, try to determine by measurement whether they need changing. I've re-bored and re-built loads of mini engines, up to a 1437cc standard stroke "grenade", some had their cam bearings changed and some not, but not one failed. We built an over-bored 970s which was supercharged, had the cam bearings changed, just in case, and a local petrol-head fitted the old bearings to another block with no probs!
Should you decide to use an engine shop, ensure they're members of the Federation of Engine Re-manufacturers for a guaranteed job.
Regards, Ron

Many thanks Ron,

You've confirmed what I thought. Thats its something I can do myself.

I've already removed the old ones, as they were scored quite a bit, in a reversal process of what I am going to do to fit the new ones.
The bearings have a steel back so look like they wont swell (I hope) and I suspect, self guiding (hence the reason not to line bore).

Kind regards,

David

I use a pukka tool;






It leaves no marks on the bearings;


Somtimes the front bearing comes up tight, but using a bearing scraper to ease the fit is all that is required.
I even get contracted out to my local engineering shop to install cam bearings in small and big block yank V8's with the same tool.

When properly installed and fitted the cam should glide in and turn freely with no tight spots.



AC