MGTF A Series Hybrid subframe

[manifold]

All this chat about K series and A Series subframes got me thinking.

I'm curious what the potential is to merge the front of an A series subframe to the back of a K series (MGTF type only) subframe to make a perfect coil over subframe. Merged from front of the coil over towers.

I haven't seen one in the flesh to compare, but I think someone has.

[Hans Efde]

In Holland it is not allowed to rework the subframes. If during the Dutch MOT test they find welding (f.e. corrosion repair) it is a fail. I like your idea very much, but if your rules are similiar, make sure the modifications don't show.
If there is noone on this forum who can answer your question, I could contact a local ex-Rover dealer who is quite involved in MGF sales. I want to get rid of the hydragas this winter, so am following closely your ideas.

[manifold]

Hans, Looking at this, I reckon that the subframe tower could be just cut off and grafted on the A series one.......

!BkWr7j!B2k~$(KGrHqQOKiwEsm-2-ULmBL(Lhg4bsQ~~_12.jpg (40.25 KiB) Viewed 7046 times

[Hans Efde]

I checked the upper suspension arms in the MG Rover EPC. The upper arm on the MG TF is completley different from the one of the MGF (which relates to the Metro arm). Is your idea to install also an upper MG TF arm, or must a special arm be built for the Midas? Below a pic of the MG TF upper arm.

upper arm mgtf.jpg (26.47 KiB) Viewed 7033 times

[manifold]

Hi Hans,

It would more likely be to use a special arm to recentralise the coil over to the arm. Id have to have a look at the geometry of all 3 and decide after that. You can be rest assured BMC wouldnt alter things unless they had to.....so the specs are probably similar.

Its pretty easy to make a new upper arm, 3 pieces of CDS tube and the ball joint mount on the end. Turned up on the inside to about 7 degrees.

Talking of the welding on the subframe, there is already welding from the factory anyway, so as long as the welding is done neatly and to a very high standard surely it would pass an inspection, especially if subframe is then powdercoated black.

[Alan D.]

Hello Guys,
The MG TF front top arm is a direct replacement for the A-series top arm. I already have them in stock! The bushing or bearings are exactly the same. The ball joint hole is in exactly the same position and the metro ball joint fits perfectly in th TF top arm. The only difference is that the TF top arm has a crank and an offset to take the coilover. If you had taken note of my pictures on the other post that was done last week, you will see that it works as a direct replacement! Where I'm at at the moment is awaiting metal to be laser cut so I can fix the top of the coilover! But as the cutting is done as a favour I will have to bide my time.

I've been trying to acquire a bare TF rear subframe, in order to try it in the Midas. The difference between the Midas and the MG is: the Midas has the box section arrangement under the front wing for strength. The TF subframe protrudes into the under wing area and may interfere with the box section! There is 115mm between the top of the hydragas support and the under wing box section. It may or may not be necessary to shorten the TF tower, but I won't know till I get a subframe! That is why I've been working at attaching the top coilover mount to my own brackets for the A-series subframe! I think I can make either brackets or attach the TF top of tower, so that you cannot see the join! I.E. make it look factory fit!

Alan

[Hans Efde]

Wow this seems to be a great solution for 2 Midas problems. No dreadful hydragas and no shockabsorbers knocking through the fibreglass. I still have the Watson kit from Stuart, but I think I am going to sell it.

[johnonthetyne]

there was a bloke giving away rear mgf subby here but its now gone, al keep eye out .

[wolfie]

This is pretty much what I'm doing. The plan is a subframe from a 'K' series metro with towers welded where the current hydrogas sphere clamping tower thing is. The fun bit is going to be trying to work out spring/damper rates

[stan1396]

I should have listened to my mate Ian when I did mine.Look at the plate in engine bay-it should give axle weights.Add the weight of 2 passengers[go on a diet if necessary!] and then half it for each front corner.This should give a reasonable start point.From memory I think mine ended up about 540lb at front and 95 at rear.I did wish I had gone for progressive springs.Hope this helps,stan.