Midas Cars Forum - www.midascarsforum.com

just found on ebay could be copyed and reproduced
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-Midas-Gold-k ... 35a8253e18

Already got my eyes on it as well as the progressive rear springs the guy is selling

It's a Mk 1 or 2 beam axle and not a Mk 3 beam axle!

Mk 1's or 2's were built to three different standards, Gold,Silver or Bronze. So you can have a Mini based car designated as a Gold aswell!

With regards to progressive springs, My opinion is that you should fit two differing springs on the same coilover, say a 60lb (2" long)short spring to take the initial load (also giving an initial softer spring set up, saving my old bones!) It also stops the bottoming out bang, when the spring goes onto full droop when the wheel falls into a pothole. Then the second spring is a longer(9"long), say 90 or 100lbs load, is there to take the normal loads. This idea works very well on my Mk 3. Stuart put me on this idea, the only thing that we cannot agree on is spring rates!

With regard to a Mk 3 rear beam, I'm working on that at the moment. I have two solutions rose joints and a tubular (CDS) radius arm or the standard radius arm with camber and toe adjustment! I'm also trying to do the same thing for the Mk1 & 2!

More news soon!

Alan

Hi Alan,

Looks good to me. Looking forward to seeing the end result and comparing notes .

Your right about the subframe. Its for a Mk1/2. Confusingly, the factory use to called the differing builds (in time/components) either a Bronze, Silver or Gold, before the Mk3 came out.

Hello all,
I spent hours on this already, the Mk 3 beam is much easier to design as it sits further away from the body on a Mk1 or 2, so I think I can do the Mk 3 with standard radius arms. But if I do CDS tubular arms I can extend the stub axle tube to take the coilover/shocker fixing. Then this would solve that fixing problem once and for all time!

The drawings not very good, I'm undergoing a leaning curve with this drawing method as well!

Alan

I've been roughing this idea tonight. It's only the end fixing plate for the Mk 1or 2. There brackets to be devised to take the rose jounts!

What size of rose joints did you use David?

Hi Alan,

I seem to remember the eyes on the rosejoints being 1/2". Theres not a lot of weight on the back end now so its fine for its purpose.

....Especially with those kind of rear arms/subframe. Most of the weight is now transferred to the wheels and fuel tank.

I hope that helps.

Cheers,

David

Heres one for Alan to add to your portfolio of ideas:

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/inde ... lastpost=1

Thanks for that David, all contributions gratefully received. I'm drawing up a similar idea at the moment and all credit to the man that devised that beam for at least having a go! I'm hoping to achieve something a little more substantial than that particular beam. I'm noting that Alberto bent an original Midas (Mk 1 & 2) rear beam, so I think we need to build in a little strength, as there are not many Midas drag racers! Durability and longevity is the aim.

Am I missing something on that beam as I don't see the adjustment for the tracking (toe in or out)