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Another thought is to check the rear brake adjustment and springs. I sent my car round the corner for some brake work (massive saga there for another time) and I took it to bits to do the repair the damage inflicted by them I discovered the springs disconnect and wrapped around the hub which caused a similar problem.

That's interesting about the piston stroke, Mike, but I'd have thought a good shove of the pedal would shoot any bubbles out. I've not used an Eezi Bleed since The Incident of the Exploding Reservoir...

Geoff, as you know I have twin horizontal master cylinders.

If you have the space behind the carb (probably with a slim air filter) and you are using a cable clutch which fits lower down (mines a hydraulic clutch so sticks up) I cant see why you wouldn't be able to fit twins fitted transverse across the car, rather than inline like mine are.

There's nothing to stop you fitting them anywhere within 360 degrees plane degrees really. The pushrod from the pedalbox pushes vertically.

Also, the master cylinders I have fitted here are quite long. The ones I have on the Coupe are shorter. Alternatively you can fit remote reservoirs to these master cylinders. Like a cap with a tube on it for the master cylinder, which can be connected via a pipe to the remote reservoir location.

I put some new back brakes on last week when I fitted the new subframe and it took me no more than 2 mins to bleed the rear circuit. I never had that with the old metro setup.

One thing that isn't well documented, but i really recommend is the cutting down of the brake and clutch pedals 2 inches on the vertical section. The effect of this is you get more pedal travel as it doesn't hit the floor.

ah the exploding reservior you only do it the once!! Mine was on a nightfire red gold coupe I was helping Charlie with I picked up the wrong tyre and blew brake fluid all over his brand new paint job. I think it would be fair to say it wasn't a popular move

I have a cunning plan to convert a standard pedal box into a vertical twin cylinder jobbie with a balance bar....... Watch this space..

The pennies dropped Rich.

Your going to modify the pedal box with balance bar pushing above, hence the need to use a spare plate your going to cut a hole in to keep master cylinders lowdown. Incidentally, remote reservoirs will work with that idea favourably.

According to this AP catalogue, they can supply fixed reservoirs for either horizontal or vertical applications

http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&xhr=t&q= ... b4bfb0eb23

manifold wrote:The pennies dropped Rich.

Your going to modify the pedal box with balance bar pushing above, hence the need to use a spare plate your going to cut a hole in to keep master cylinders lowdown. Incidentally, remote reservoirs will work with that idea favourably.

Got it in one.

I'm going to have to use remote reservoirs and I'll probably end up shifting the battery into the boot, though it shouldn't be essential for this installation.

As it stands the box isn't wide enough to accommodate the balance bar, but a bit of strategic hole saw usage should sort that out. If it works the way it's forming in my head it should be relatively easy though the welder and milling slide will be coming out to play.

Well good stuff Rich.

Look forward to seeing the results. Step by step photos. Might be good to put on that metro forum too.

Battery in the boot is a good idea. I have gel one bolted to the back of the bulkhead inside an alloy cage. Now I have the right cable size sorted its fine. Make sure you use minimum 35mm battery cables. I just checked my bill and I used 8 metres of red and 8 metres of black connected to the battery via a pair of 175amp anderson connectors.

Let's try that again
http://www.apgroupltd.com/Combined%20Ca ... %20web.pdf