Midas Cars Forum - www.midascarsforum.com

Yes RIch thats what you will need to do to get the best from the pivot. It has to have a little free play on both sides.

Failing that, you will need to plumb in the rear to have the most travel like mine does, so that the rears don't lock up first. (unless you compensate with different size masters).

Its recommended to play about with master cylinder sizes and wheel cylinders first, then fine tune with the balance bar. I cant remember if I told you what mine were or not, but when your ready let me know and I will find out what I have fitted. They are perfectly set on my cars now.

Are you going to fit a dash mounted cable? If you do, just make sure its off, and locked with a locking nut, when you go for MOT.

Not got round to fitting cables yet....its on the 'to do' list . I'm tempted to leave them off with them working how I want them.

The tube itself can't go any further towards the centre of the pedal as it very quickly causes the clevis to interfere with the right side of the pedal box. As it stands I should have full articulation of the bar with the gaps I have available. I currently have .70 and .65 cylinders, the plan being to use the .70 on the rear circuit to give the extra travel/reduced effort.

I knew the adjuster cables were a no-no for the IVA but I didn't know that the MOT had a problem with them too.

i suppose it depends whose doing the MOT and how vigilant they are.

As I understand it you are not supposed to be able to adjust the brake bias from inside the car.

manifold wrote:i suppose it depends whose doing the MOT and how vigilant they are.

As I understand it you are not supposed to be able to adjust the brake bias from inside the car.

Ok, my local MOT station owner builds kit cars and competes etc. Best to ask before test time I suppose.

Time to do a bit more I suppose.....

It isn't possible to mount the cylinders direct to the top plate as they are too close to the pedal, they need spacing out by 40mm or so to allow a little wriggle room. I initially had a look through the odd 'n' sods bin for a lump of suitable aluminium, the only bot I had that was thick enough was going to need 20mm milling off it's thickness. Given the milling facilities I have (limited) this wasn't an option. What I did find was a couple of pieces of phenolic resin blocks that would do the job. After a bit of milling, some more use of the hole saw I had this... apologies for the poor focus



While the pain was drying on the block I powder coated the metal parts..





The block bolts on independently (I've welded nuts to the underside to aid this, particularly useful when you think how these things fit the car itself).



The cylinders fitted..



This is essentially it finished, there's still a few bits to work out and I've missed at least one captive nut to be welded on. The pedal moves through it's full range with no binding or catching. I've flattened the pedal pads as I prefer to use alloy plates instead of the rubber things that are forever falling off. Next on the shopping list are a pair of reservoirs, drop pipes to suit and a bracket to mount them on.



I hope this has been of use to somebody out there!

Looks great that Rich. Cant wait to see how you get on with it finished!

You wont be disappointed it it works out ok!

Very nice Rich, the powder coat really finishes it off a treat

Amazing job Rich. Do you use these with the Metro calipers, or are you installing an other type (with one bleed nipple)?

he should be able to do it either way, using the banjo joiner method or alternatively use the mini vented caliper conversions.

I'm retaining the Metro 4 pot calipers courtesy of a t-piece. I must admit I do like the powder coating too, I wish I'd had the machine when I was doing the initial rebuild.