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Rich, hurry up and show us how it's done! My pedal is in the carpet again

Geoff Butcher wrote:Rich, hurry up and show us how it's done! My pedal is in the carpet again

Just collecting bits!

Rich wrote:

Geoff Butcher wrote:Rich, hurry up and show us how it's done! My pedal is in the carpet again

Just collecting bits!

That's my problem, I now have five cars and seven various engines, plus loads of other bits in stock, my wife is suggesting I get treatment! Is there a clinic somewhere!! Heated front screen anyone!!!

Alan

In the Haynes book there are two different sequences for bleeding Metro calipers, pre and post 1985. For the early ones the two lower nipples are done together, then the upper one, while for the others one lower and the upper are done together followed by the other lower. If you buy a recon caliper it could be either, so what's the reason and does it make a difference?

Hmm That's an interesting question as the only fundamental difference between the two systems is that on the earlier systems the brake proportioning valve for the rears was at the back of the car and the the later setup it's on the master cyinder. I'm not sure there's any difference in the calipers although there are a couple of different types of vented caliper design over the years. (Excluding type A and B brakes on early cars i know the pads are different but the function is the same). I can only assume that the process of bleeding is improved with the post 84 fit out due to feedback from the servicing community. If i think I have a duff caliper somewhere I'll dig it out and see if i can see the routing of the fluid.

Geoff Butcher wrote:In the Haynes book there are two different sequences for bleeding Metro calipers, pre and post 1985. For the early ones the two lower nipples are done together, then the upper one, while for the others one lower and the upper are done together followed by the other lower. If you buy a recon caliper it could be either, so what's the reason and does it make a difference?

Well done Geoff,

So that's why it took me hours when I fitted my new callipers!!! I'm about to change the front subframe again and was dreading the brake bleeding thing again! I should get a manual instead of making it up as I go along!!!

Alan

I also think the answer is in the suck not the blow

I once tried using a vacuum pump but it was unsuccessful as it sucks air from round the threads of the bleed screw so you can't tell what's going on. The chap who did that TV series 'A Car is Born' tried one of those hand operated jobs, but gave up with it.
On the caliper I took off recently, the top screw is connected to the upper pair of pistons, and both the lower ones go to the lower pistons.

I don't think there's any difference on the drillings on all the calipers I have seen. Whether with spacers or not. Like Mike said, its more likely to do with whether the brake reducer is on the master cylinder or not. Later ones are on the master cylinder.

In all honesty I never found it made much difference which way round you bled the calipers, you always end up going round the whole car just to make sure anyway. As long as you use low pressure and a none-cracked reservoir easy-bleed always worked fine for me, Yes I'm one who has experienced the exploding master-cylinder too