Midas Cars Forum - www.midascarsforum.com

It's best to press them in and out, but I know of one user who hammered them in and out!

Alan

The bolt idea on the back is a good one, then you can cater easily for those on 3/8" original or those who go 1/2" or now 12 mm.

I pressed mine in and out on a hydraulic press of a sadly no longer with us engineer. You just need to replicate the original outer stub then add on the 80 mm ish bit with a diameter that matches the hole in the radius arm, that gives added support and strength to the design, then just tap the hole in the end. That will also make it easier to press in not having to make a sleeve to protect the end whilst pressing it into the arm.

As Alan says I think my drawing is on an old faulty hard-drive, although it really isn't needed. I can double check the distance on the original Midas brackets with 3/8" Spax to get the right ball-park, then you just need to adjust the length to suit the dampers you're fitting to take account of their bottom bush width relative to the Spax width.

And yes I'll have a pair please

Does anyone have a redundant stub axle kicking about then? The only ones I have are in constant use...

I'll get one posted down to you, I've emailed you

can i have some please it would be very much appreciated

I'll have a look at the stub axle that Stuart is kindly sending down, no promises.

Going back to Davids suggestion about the cap head bolt, is the suggestion to replace the threaded area only or the entire bearing surface?

Rich

My suggestion involves leaving the spacer incorporated into the stub, with the thread end chopped off....and instead having a drilling in the spacer with an internal thread so you can have a caphead screw in. Basically, look at my Ti arms and do something similar in the end.

manifold wrote:My suggestion involves leaving the spacer incorporated into the stub, with the thread end chopped off....and instead having a drilling in the spacer with an internal thread so you can have a caphead screw in. Basically, look at my Ti arms and do something similar in the end.

Gotcha, so the entire bearing surface would in fact be the shoulder of the bolt. Makes sense.

The Gaz coilovers have a 1/2" diameter and the Protech units a 12mm diameter?

yes thats basically what I mean. Basically same as Stuart/Alans pin, with a hole in the end instead of a threaded pin.

i just want some of them brackets on the first picture can anybody help please