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Wow. That looks better than new Hans! Everything so immaculate.

I'd really like to give the trigger sensored ignition a go.

Very nice Hans. Have you seen the throttle body on this engine, destined for a Mini Marcos



http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/fo ... ght=#num16

Looks like a Specialist Components TB:
http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_S ... 218.001%26
Nice kit for 990gbp. Sounds expensive but you get the lot, also the computer, wire loom etc. I think I paid the same in the end.

Sorry but if this below dynograph shows the before / after effect of this kit, I'm not sure its the best £ per bhp I've ever seen!

I don't think it really matters concerning bhp. A proper setup SU carb is difficult to beat. But it will matter in starting the engine, engine idle stability, driveability and the possibility to go for a fuel efficient drive or max bhp without the need to switch needles that need to be setup on a dyno. This combined with the electronic ignition should make the engine more reliable and give a modern feel. I've driven a mpi Mini with just 60bhp but it felt much stronger. I couldn't believe it was just an A-series engine.

Friday and today I continued working on my car. I was lucky to find a km display which looks much cleaner than the mph display:

Then I stripped and painted the engine brackets.While they were drying:

I had a closer look at my engine. what the heck?:

That doesnt fit!
I looked through my old pics and found something completely different on the old engine:


Great, it seems my engine builder has mixed up a few parts. Now I have to wait for the correct bit and swap it. I hope it doesn't get worse than this, but Murhpy says

I have completed the installation of the new engine in my car, but can't get it to run. It turns over on the starter but not even a cough or a rumble. I have a spark on my stroboscopic lamp and also get fuel in the engine. I have been troubleshooting for over a week now, but no result. There are a few questions, maybe you can answer them.

Which needle?
I have a stage 1 head with MG inlet manifold, medium LCB and HIF44 with KN cone filter. Presently I have a BDL needle (MG Metro) installed. Is this needle sufficient for starting or do I need a specific needle? I have downloaded Winsu v2.6 but a)is this a reliable program and b) as long as I don't pay I don't see the proper results.

Timing?
With the engine on the starter motor turning over I have set the spark at just before TDC. Is this correct for starting or should I dial in more advance?

Correct coil?
I have an old 65D lucas distributor with a spare ignition module installed. It is hooked up to a Aldon firestarter coil. Could there be resistance issues? Should I use a normal coil, f.e. a blue Bosch (although many variants exist of this coil, I had one that ovehreated every time on my turbo engine)?

Spark plug gap?
What gap should I have on my plugs? The Haynes speaks of 0,6 or 0,8 depending on the plug. But they relate to Champion plugs, while I bought NGK plugs. Presently I have 0,6mm gaps on my plugs.

For the rest I have done everyting to get it to work. Overhauled the carb (found the cork gasket of the KN filter to block the vent holes of the piston, how could this have run on my brothers car?) to make sure fuel gets in and out), bought a new battery, tried several ignition timing positions etc.
So any advise is appreciated.

BDL needle should get it to fire on an mg style engine.

Assuming cam is ground well...

If it is sparking with a strong spark are you sure dizzie is set right on the gears on the cam and isn't 180 degrees out. Sometime this can happen.off top of my head I seem to remember the electrode inside cap should be pointing towards either number 1 or 4 plug at tdc. It's been a while since I used a dizzie so bear with me and check it out.

Other reasons for no fire is wrong tappers/valve seats not ground in right.

Matches box card thickness on spark plug gap should at least give you a spark.

Timing at 6 degrees BTDC should at least get it to fire. Megajolt/squirt running on EDIS is set at 10 degrees for emergency limp home mode.....(ECU out of loop) so a dizzy set around his should fire an engine.

It's a new SW5 cam, so should work. Stage 1 head is also new, but haven't checked compression.
I set up the dizzie by putting the pulley timing mark on the TDC and checked that the rotor was pointing towards the no.1 spark plug cable. If that would be out, I wouldn't see the spark on the pulley with the no.1 cylinder mark visible. I also checked both valves on no. 1 were closed. So I am sure that's setup right. But I'll give it a bit more advance this evening. Maybe go to 10 degrees as well, to see what happens.

Hi Hans, Just a couple of ideas.I have found that sometimes eezi-start is required for a new engine to fire,it comes in a spray can-just squirt some into the intake and try starting it.I assume you can get it in Holland.Another point ,I had a Kawasaki motorbike years ago that would not start each springtime.A mechanic friend said to close off the air intake on the carbs with a plastic bag or something to make the throttle valves lift.That did the trick and afterwards it would always start ok until it had been lying idle over the winter.I am not sure if your carb will be the same.I could always get it to start by putting the spark plugs in the oven for 10 mins and then quickly fitting them before he told me his tip.It does not make your food taste very nice though!Hope you can get it going,there is nothing more annoying than spending all that money,and then not getting the results. Good luck! Stan.