Midas Cars Forum - www.midascarsforum.com

Hi,

They should be standard metro couple of things to check would be the union position in relation to the arm and that the lower bump stops are still in situ as they shouldn't be tight. I know charlie used to add the protective plastic springs as used on the front pipes to the rears whenever he changed them.

cheers,

Mike

I'd give the servo assist another go. Maybe you can borrow Riches servo. It's a quick job too.

A bit of Googling suggests that on the Metro the LH hose is 2cm longer than the RH. Not necessarily so on the Midas of course, but at least I can make sure I get the longer ones. I remember when spares shops had the hoses hanging up on a board which made life easier for the more unusual car owners. Read that how you like!

Yes they're standard Metro, the nearside one on the pressure reducing valve is a right pig to get at if my memory is not failing me again.

Now you're trying to confuse me! The only pressure reducing valve I have, as far as I know, is screwed into the master cylinder.

Geoff Butcher wrote:Now you're trying to confuse me! The only pressure reducing valve I have, as far as I know, is screwed into the master cylinder.

Yes that's the later Metro version. The early ones had a valve at the rear subframe an did not have the limiter on the m/c.

Hans Efde wrote:I'd give the servo assist another go. Maybe you can borrow Riches servo. It's a quick job too.

Yep, got a spare servo if needed.

Thanks Rich, but my servo is only a couple of years old, it works, and I don't really see how it can cause a problem in the hydraulic system. Now considering the can of petrol/box of matches cure...

I'll have a rebuilt/sealed master cylinder going begging soon as well......

Geoff Butcher wrote:Thanks Rich, but my servo is only a couple of years old, it works, and I don't really see how it can cause a problem in the hydraulic system. Now considering the can of petrol/box of matches cure...

I am not sure how the thing works, but I removed my servo and disected it after having problems with a soggy pedal and done everyting first as well. There is no direct link from the brake pedal to the m/c, but this bladder sits in the way and works with air pressure. Maybe it has to do with an airleak, because with installation you need to install a few seals. If it doesn't work the pedal pushes via a rod on the bladder inside but the movement is not tranferred properly to another rod that goes into the m/c.
Anyway it could not work on a turbo engine because of the overpressure in the intake manifold (instead of underpressure) so I removed it and have a direct rod going from the pedal into the m/c. It cured all my braking problems.

Maybe -if you think your servo works- there is a sort of airleak in the servo causing these problems. Perhaps someone who understands the servo better can clarify.