Midas Cars Forum - www.midascarsforum.com

I just got an answer from the Dutch brake disc company that they have a suitable disc. They sent me enclosed pic. It's identical to the Brembo linked above.

According their catalogue item nr. 57352 is suited for Honda/Lotus/MG/Rover.

XEvalver runs discs on the back of his Vauxall powered mini, I saw a post recerntly where he was redrilling his discs, I believe he had slight movement issues related to the slightly larger holes.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showt ... 47&page=80

The MGF set-up will suit your K-series car better Alan given it shares the 95.25 PCD, the same as Stan's K-series car had.

Hans Efde wrote:I just got an answer from the Dutch brake disc company that they have a suitable disc. They sent me enclosed pic. It's identical to the Brembo linked above.

According their catalogue item nr. 57352 is suited for Honda/Lotus/MG/Rover.

Dimension G needs to be around 65 mm with that little chamfer, unless you want to start machining the Metro hub.

I've just tried a 100 PCD disc on a hub and it would have slide over the studs without trouble, the centre hole on this Vauxhall disc wasn't big enough though.

Alan D. wrote: I'm going to the Classic car show at the NEC Birmingham this weekend, I'm going to collect a JMR tube bender, but I'll if I can get some of those super-duper hard drills, which I think are made from "Cobalt". This may be what I need to drill disc rotors!

Alan

I can pick up Cobalt steel bits locally if anyone is stuck for getting them at any point, or you can always order them from Axminster Tools.

Alan D. wrote:

Hans Efde wrote:Hi Alan,
And the holes for fastening it on the hub? Do they match?

I doubt it Hans, But they are only holes, so they can be re-drilled. I'll try and get up to the garages in the next couple of days and sort out some of the components.

I've read through the posts on the Metropower forum and the project has a lot of doubters, saying that we would be over-braking the rear end of the car and creating and imbalance, possibly give the car the liability of swapping ends ( spinning). But the advantages are constantly adjusted brakes! But what I don't understand is that every quality or sports/GTI car has rear discs, so why not on a Midas?

It may be that Rich's work on brake bias adjustment and your ideas (Hans's) on doing away with the master cylinder and getting the free play out of the brake linkages is the way to bring our cars into the 21st century!

David M's (I think you have fitted a KAD kit is this correct) is the only person I know with rear disc brakes on a Midas. What would be your comments David?

Alan

It's a slightly different attitude on MP isn't it?

The cheaper and less involved way to sort the rear bias would be to lose the pressure reducing valve from the master cylinder and fit an inline bias valve.

Rich wrote:

Alan D. wrote: I'm going to the Classic car show at the NEC Birmingham this weekend, I'm going to collect a JMR tube bender, but I'll if I can get some of those super-duper hard drills, which I think are made from "Cobalt". This may be what I need to drill disc rotors!

Alan

I can pick up Cobalt steel bits locally if anyone is stuck for getting them at any point, or you can always order them from Axminster Tools.

If Stuart is correct, we may not need Cobalt bits. As you said in an earlier post, "the simpler the better".

what's an in line bias valve?

I'm off up to the garages now, I'll see what i can dig out.

Alan

Alan D. wrote:
If Stuart is correct, we may not need Cobalt bits. As you said in an earlier post, "the simpler the better".

what's an in line bias valve?

I'm off up to the garages now, I'll see what i can dig out.

Alan

One of these Alan, they also get called proportioning valves.

Alan D. wrote:
David M's (I think you have fitted a KAD kit is this correct) is the only person I know with rear disc brakes on a Midas. What would be your comments David?

Alan

Sorry I only just picked this up Alan.

I wold say the KAD units are very nicely engineered but are definitely built to limit weight on the axle not be used year in year out. The disks are off a motorbike rotor of some kind. The calipers are bespoke. I think the disks are from a Kawasaki, based on the tiny disk pads part number.

When I put big brakes on my Alpine I had to drill the discs but I don't remember having any difficulty.

Sorry,I have been away on holiday,so have just read this.When I did my conversion I had just fitted new front discs and realised that the old ones would fit on the rear studs.The main problem was that they did not run true,possibly the hubs would need turned down a bit to get them to sit properly.I found they would only sit right in one particular position,so marked the stud and disc so I knew where to fit them again.I was told by my friend who worked at the Nissan factory that the holding screws on a disc are not necessary,they are just there to locate the disc at the factory-they are actually held on by the wheel studs.Just look at the new mondeos for verification,the disc is held on to the studs via a star washer!The main problem is finding a caliper that will fit in the wheel,there is not much space.Then you just have to make up mounts to get it central to the disc.From memory,I think I made some out of half inch plywood to get some idea of where it was to go.The brakes worked perfectly-there was no sideways pull, unbias or anything like that-but I did have K series metro master cylinder,which would be better than any mini item I think.Good luck to anyone wanting to try it,the benefits outwheigh any grief trying to do it.Just go for it! Stan.