battery kill/disconnect switch
Moderator: The Midas Forum Staff
battery kill/disconnect switch
I have my battery in the boot and want to disconnect it with a switch when I don't use the car. Now I remove the negative lead every time, but there are dozens of switches for sale. There is one that bolts directly to the battery pole like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Quick ... 2c6aa16a7c
Is that a reliable one for regular use?
Or is it advisable to install one on a separate bracket like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-Battery ... 23167c21eb
Anyone with experience on this subject?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Quick ... 2c6aa16a7c
Is that a reliable one for regular use?
Or is it advisable to install one on a separate bracket like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-Battery ... 23167c21eb
Anyone with experience on this subject?
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
my experience is that the battery pole type fall to bits after a little while as the material on the connector is quite flimsy where the thumbscrew thread is in the body. It split into 2 bits.
Second type is probably more robust but requires you to splice some connectors on the cable...plus fitting. Used a lot in rally/race cars though.
I use anderson connectors on mine. I just pull the 2 parts apart off when not used. Handy for quick battery changeover too with a pit battery.
Second type is probably more robust but requires you to splice some connectors on the cable...plus fitting. Used a lot in rally/race cars though.
I use anderson connectors on mine. I just pull the 2 parts apart off when not used. Handy for quick battery changeover too with a pit battery.
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Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
Connecting the cable to the terminals is an issue because the cable needs to be removed for crimping or soldering. My cables run through the whole car, it's a lot of work getting them out. I don't want terminals that bolt on. Perhaps pulling them back to the passenger compartment creates enough length to just get them out of the car to be able to work on.
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lankyjames
- Posts: 455
- Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:47 pm
- Location: Nottingham
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
I have both types but only fit the first type as it was so easy to install, the other required a bracket that I hadn't the time to make!
Have you looked at this type Hans?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 1759482110
I've debated buying these and testing them out as they look tool-less so easy to swap battery/take it out to charge.
Have you looked at this type Hans?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 1759482110
I've debated buying these and testing them out as they look tool-less so easy to swap battery/take it out to charge.
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
Hi Hans,I used the second,Lucas type in my spider.It has the advantage that you can remove the key from it and give some extra security.I found it to be very reliable,but you need to put it somewhere inaccessible to thieving hands as you can bridge it/unbolt the cables quite easily. Stan.
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
I have got the second one for my midas, the first one I have it on my gtm, the second one is the best in my opinion. You can disconnect the battery faster, and after the disconnect there won't be any loose cables hanging around in you engine bay.
Midas Mk II
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
Last 2 weeks I have been doing a few small improvements on my car. One is the kill switch.I bought the heavier version and installed it in the boot above the battery:

I had to remove the cables to get to a shop that has a large crimping tool to connect the new terminals. I will install them once I've done a few things at the dashboard among other the installation of a triple pod. I am building one from aluminium and wood. Today I cut the aluminium sheet and did a first fit:

I intend to finish it the coming week if it doesn't get to cold in the shed (weather forecast predicts again frost)

I had to remove the cables to get to a shop that has a large crimping tool to connect the new terminals. I will install them once I've done a few things at the dashboard among other the installation of a triple pod. I am building one from aluminium and wood. Today I cut the aluminium sheet and did a first fit:

I intend to finish it the coming week if it doesn't get to cold in the shed (weather forecast predicts again frost)
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lankyjames
- Posts: 455
- Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:47 pm
- Location: Nottingham
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Geoff Butcher
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:10 pm
- Location: Braintree
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
I've just discovered a snag with the basic type of cut-off as on Hans' car. I was tinkering with my Ginetta the other day, switched the ignition off and the engine kept running! So I used the cut-off and it still kept running...
Apparently to be sure of shutting off in an emergency you need the kind that also cuts off the alternator circuit.
Geoff
Re: battery kill/disconnect switch
How is that possible? The power to the coil runs via the ignition. If you switch it off, the coil is powerless and so should the engine be. Or do you have a relais in between that got stuck (igniton powers relais, relais powers coil)?Geoff Butcher wrote:I've just discovered a snag with the basic type of cut-off as on Hans' car. I was tinkering with my Ginetta the other day, switched the ignition off and the engine kept running! So I used the cut-off and it still kept running...Apparently to be sure of shutting off in an emergency you need the kind that also cuts off the alternator circuit.
For me the battery kill switch is not an emergency switch as used in racing, but to preserve the battery. I agree with you that in racing cars the wiring of the kill switch should be different because it should also cut off the engine.
