Bonnet Stay
Moderator: The Midas Forum Staff
Bonnet Stay
My newly acquired Gold does not have a bonnet stay, and I would like to fit a gas strut.
I assume that this has been done before, if so, can anyone tell me which strut was used and where the mounting points would be?
Cheers
Dave
I assume that this has been done before, if so, can anyone tell me which strut was used and where the mounting points would be?
Cheers
Dave
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Geoff Butcher
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:10 pm
- Location: Braintree
Re: Bonnet Stay
The bonnet is so light it hardly seems worth using a gas strut, also it would make removing the bonnet for access more difficult.
Geoff
Re: Bonnet Stay
I have fitted 1 of the bonnet pins with a spring and glued the bonnet stay to the bonnet.





All diy stuff. Alu tube and the hinge is a roller wheel with the wheel removed. 2 tool clamps do the rest. If I want to work, I don't have to unbolt the bonnet stay prior to lifting the bonnet.





All diy stuff. Alu tube and the hinge is a roller wheel with the wheel removed. 2 tool clamps do the rest. If I want to work, I don't have to unbolt the bonnet stay prior to lifting the bonnet.
Re: Bonnet Stay
That's very neat, Hans. However, having had to work under the bonnet of my car in high winds before, I think I'll stick with my current sliding stay. Despite it rattling like crazy in gusty conditions, it has yet to collapse and thump me on the head. My worry is that those tool clips might distort and release their hold on the end of the rod if your bonnet happened to catch a high wind - have it been used in those conditions?Hans Efde wrote:I have fitted 1 of the bonnet pins with a spring and glued the bonnet stay to the bonnet.
All diy stuff. Alu tube and the hinge is a roller wheel with the wheel removed. 2 tool clamps do the rest. If I want to work, I don't have to unbolt the bonnet stay prior to lifting the bonnet.
Re: Bonnet Stay
Several Midas's ago, I experimented using a weak rear hatch gas strut off another car.It was the right length when open but exerted so much force when closed, it distorted the bonnetaxshack wrote:My newly acquired Gold does not have a bonnet stay, and I would like to fit a gas strut.
I assume that this has been done before, if so, can anyone tell me which strut was used and where the mounting points would be?
Cheers
Dave
Re: Bonnet Stay
ah! I wondered if that might be the case.
I guess I just decided against a gas strut. I do like the look of Hans' arrangement though
d
I guess I just decided against a gas strut. I do like the look of Hans' arrangement though
d
Re: Bonnet Stay
Good point, but having it resting on the back of my head when I am under the bonnet is a pain! And I dont necessarily want to be taking it off the car every time, so I think I will have a go at making up a version of Hans' ally tube arrangement, which looks eminently suitable.Geoff Butcher wrote:The bonnet is so light it hardly seems worth using a gas strut, also it would make removing the bonnet for access more difficult.
d
Re: Bonnet Stay
Yes, high winds will cause mayhem, but this applies to the boot and doors as well. I don't open it with high winds, or have someone hold it, or park the car with the nose in the wind. Even movement restricted parts will get damaged with high wind. Get a good wind in the bonnet or door and they will go beyond the maximum position and get damaged.DavidL wrote:That's very neat, Hans. However, having had to work under the bonnet of my car in high winds before, I think I'll stick with my current sliding stay. Despite it rattling like crazy in gusty conditions, it has yet to collapse and thump me on the head. My worry is that those tool clips might distort and release their hold on the end of the rod if your bonnet happened to catch a high wind - have it been used in those conditions?Hans Efde wrote:I have fitted 1 of the bonnet pins with a spring and glued the bonnet stay to the bonnet.
All diy stuff. Alu tube and the hinge is a roller wheel with the wheel removed. 2 tool clamps do the rest. If I want to work, I don't have to unbolt the bonnet stay prior to lifting the bonnet.
Re: Bonnet Stay
I hadn't considered that.Hans Efde wrote:Yes, high winds will cause mayhem, but this applies to the boot and doors as well. I don't open it with high winds, or have someone hold it, or park the car with the nose in the wind. Even movement restricted parts will get damaged with high wind. Get a good wind in the bonnet or door and they will go beyond the maximum position and get damaged.DavidL wrote:That's very neat, Hans. However, having had to work under the bonnet of my car in high winds before, I think I'll stick with my current sliding stay. Despite it rattling like crazy in gusty conditions, it has yet to collapse and thump me on the head. My worry is that those tool clips might distort and release their hold on the end of the rod if your bonnet happened to catch a high wind - have it been used in those conditions?Hans Efde wrote:I have fitted 1 of the bonnet pins with a spring and glued the bonnet stay to the bonnet.
All diy stuff. Alu tube and the hinge is a roller wheel with the wheel removed. 2 tool clamps do the rest. If I want to work, I don't have to unbolt the bonnet stay prior to lifting the bonnet.
However, the bonnet is the one opening panel which might need to be left open for an extended period, if you're working on the engine - generally, you'd be able to restrain the doors or boot lid by hand while you (a) got out of the car, (b) got into the car, or (c) got something out of the boot.
I know, I'm playing devil's advocate here...
Re: Bonnet Stay
I still have stocks of the original "Western Body Hardware" auto-latching bonnet stay.
This holds the bonnet up, automatically latching when the bonnet is opened and releasing with a second upwards movement.
It also provides support against the wind blowing the bonnet forwards, which a conventional strut doesn't.
A further refinement is to use a wing nut on the bolt at the top of the strut, which when coupled with a sprung bonnet pin, makes it easy to remove the bonnet single handed.
Unfortunately, I can't find a photo of this strut in a Midas, but this is the WBH catalogue image:
My stocks are finished in the yellow ZPP - Zinc Plated and Passivated - and come with one end bracket which fits in the recess on the underside of the bonnet.
The other end bolts to the side of the engine bay, usually spaced off with a penny washer.
The stays themselves cost £9.50 each.
This holds the bonnet up, automatically latching when the bonnet is opened and releasing with a second upwards movement.
It also provides support against the wind blowing the bonnet forwards, which a conventional strut doesn't.
A further refinement is to use a wing nut on the bolt at the top of the strut, which when coupled with a sprung bonnet pin, makes it easy to remove the bonnet single handed.
Unfortunately, I can't find a photo of this strut in a Midas, but this is the WBH catalogue image:
My stocks are finished in the yellow ZPP - Zinc Plated and Passivated - and come with one end bracket which fits in the recess on the underside of the bonnet.
The other end bolts to the side of the engine bay, usually spaced off with a penny washer.
The stays themselves cost £9.50 each.