Coupe cable clutch problems

[justamin]

Does anyone know a source for new cable clutch lever arms and piston? My Coupe's clutch is slipping, I have checked the pressure plate and all appears OK, as there is no slip when driven with clutch-less changes. There was a lot of excess movement in the ball and socket of the lever arrangement and despite a 'botch' to reduce the play,I think this may be playing a major part in being unable to adjust the clutch properly. Anyone else suffered?

[Hans Efde]

There needs to be an amount of axial play on the clutch pushrod (you mention this as the piston?). Details are in the Haynes. It is adjusted by the big nut on the end. If there is no play the constant pressure wears the clutch plate down. If there is play and the clutchplate is fine, maybe the pressure plate is not up to the job. There are several colors available depending on engine torque. Tuned engines can cause a bit of slip. I have an orange pressure plate, good for my 90bhp engine but may cause slip when pushed hard. Alternative I could have the grey pressure plate. Disadvantage is that it eats away the crankshaft shims because you need a heavy foot to operate it, causing severe axial load on the crankshaft.

[justamin]

Thanks for your reply Hans. As the clutch does not slip when the cable is disconnected, it would seem to me that the clutch plate/pressure plate is fine. Also, the large nut should help prevent clutch overthrow, but at present is wound so far out that it is effectively doing nothing. This is why I feel, the pushrod play may be the significant factor. Unfortunately, they seem difficult to obtain.

[Hans Efde]

Yes it's possible they wear out, maybe you can find a scrappy or a Mini engine specialist (they buy up old engines for overhaul, so usually also have the shed full of gearboxes and ancilliaries) or overhaul yours, by drilling it out and installing a bush. BTW is your clutch pedal modified?. A common issue with clutch problems (but not your problem, it's not able to shift properly) is that the floor of the Midas has a different shape than the Metro or Mini. There is a thread somewhere on this forum about the issue. I had problems with my clutch as well, caused by the limited throw of the pedal. It was just 9cm's but should be around 15cm's. Solved by cutting and rewelding the pedal.

[justamin]

I will replace the arm with a used one I expect, but had hoped to buy new. I think it is the only sure way to eliminate a possible cause. The pedal has already had the mod and is a lot better than my mk2. I will post an update when the work is completed.

[ACourtney]

A quick look on ebay revealed this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-Metro-V ... 1e63ee310b
I was going to suggest doing some DIY case hardening on the ball of your remodelled lever arm, but a new one seems a better idea.

The plunger/pushrod is available from Mini specialists such as Mini Spares: http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

My other experiences with cable clutches has taught me that not all aftermarket clutch cables are equal. I used to try to find Unipart ones, but they are now hard to find. I have used Quinton Hazell as well and so far no problems. When you install the cable you may find that the pedal is loose and there is a large amount of free travel. There is a short plastic sleeve around the cable at the pedal end that acts as a stop for the cable end. This can be shortened to remove the slack and provide you with full pedal travel.

[Hans Efde]

A quick look on ebay revealed this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-Metro-V ... 1e63ee310b
I was going to suggest doing some DIY case hardening on the ball of your remodelled lever arm, but a new one seems a better idea.

The plunger/pushrod is available from Mini specialists such as Mini Spares: http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

My other experiences with cable clutches has taught me that not all aftermarket clutch cables are equal. I used to try to find Unipart ones, but they are now hard to find. I have used Quinton Hazell as well and so far no problems. When you install the cable you may find that the pedal is loose and there is a large amount of free travel. There is a short plastic sleeve around the cable at the pedal end that acts as a stop for the cable end. This can be shortened to remove the slack and provide you with full pedal travel.

If you have the cable spec. it's quite easy to have them copied at specialised companies. I have a rowing type bicycle that uses a bowden cable for steering. I used to order them from the USA that cost me 150usd, but last few years have had them produced locally at cable companies. And may be cheaper as well to my surprise, most recent one just 50 euros.

[justamin]

Thanks for the link. I haven't checked yet but I think the cable clutch arm is a different throw to the hydraulic item. I'm not sure the minispares one will fit, so I think I will need to contact them. Was the Avonbar engine based on the turbo lump as my local stockist says this is not available?(I see the Minispares part is an aftermarket version)

[Rich]

A quick look on ebay revealed this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-Metro-V ... 1e63ee310b
I was going to suggest doing some DIY case hardening on the ball of your remodelled lever arm, but a new one seems a better idea.

The plunger/pushrod is available from Mini specialists such as Mini Spares: http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

My other experiences with cable clutches has taught me that not all aftermarket clutch cables are equal. I used to try to find Unipart ones, but they are now hard to find. I have used Quinton Hazell as well and so far no problems. When you install the cable you may find that the pedal is loose and there is a large amount of free travel. There is a short plastic sleeve around the cable at the pedal end that acts as a stop for the cable end. This can be shortened to remove the slack and provide you with full pedal travel.

I've found the same with the cables and tend to buy the QH ones where possible, there's an uprated clutch in my Midas and it eats the cheap cables. You can increase the compression on the adjustment spring by moving the locating clip.

[Hans Efde]

Or go hydraulic. Almost bullet proof.