F529YNG -LIVE (ON A KNIFE EDGE)

[johnnyfixit]

new master on and fitted no sign of any gasget on the old one so cleaned up where it sits
now ready for the calipers was going to go for the stainless nipples slipped up to stop future probs think they are 7mm and expensive

What problems did your friend have Hans with putting in dot 5 fluid??

[manifold]

Not sure to be honest with Hans.

Hans may be able to answer. I believe he did away with the servo like me, although he still uses the metro master.

One advantage of having twins is less circuits to bleed when ones off line....but at a price.

[Hans Efde]

Concerning the silicone based brake fluid I recall my collegue had difficulty getting the pedal hard. It felt like there was air trapped. Whatever he did, he could not cure it. In the end he flushed it all (was a time consuming job as well) and switch to standard brake fluid. I don't know what the present standard is, I suppose Dot 3.

Concerning brake problems locking brakes when they are warm (and release when they are cold again) is likely caused by the vent hole blocked by the master cylinder piston. Seized or dragging brakes (due to long standstill etc.) are ususally caused by dirt and corrosion. Hot or cold brakes won't differ.

My problem was a soft pedal and appalling brakes. I tried everything and even took the master cylinder apart (which was fine). As a shotgun approach I got rid of the brake servo by removing it and replacing it with an adaptor plate. I wrote about it in one of the previous club mags. This solved everything and gives the car great brake feel. Obviously more brake force is needed, but I can control it perfectly. Also no play between the pedal and the master cylinder. There is instant action.
In theory a Midas should brake as well as a Metro, because all geometry is retained. But recently I had a chat with Ed whose blue coupe wasn't braking as well. There seemed to be a large dead stroke. He had replaced almost everything,including the brake servo. In the end I suggested to remove the master cylinder (just unbolt and lift, the brake lines are flexible) and put a cap o.e. on the pin that was sticking out the brake servo. This lifts the master cylinder brake piston slightly and removes play. He noticed that now the brakes would bite much earlier at the pedal stroke, but they didn't drag or seize when being warm.

Brake problems have been reported more and it seems that somehow (using parts from different cars?) play may be introduced between the pedal throw and the upward movement of the master piston. It's worth checking this, by jacking up the car, hand rotate a front wheel and let someone slowly apply the brakes. When the wheel starts dragging, check how much travel of the pedal was needed. This dead part should be as small as possible,

[Geoff Butcher]

Johnny, if you were thinking of using silicone fluid, read this first!
http://www.apracing.com/info/info.asp?s ... rmation_49

[Rich]

The travel on my brakes is a little alarming too, the system has been rebuilt with new pipes, cylinders and master. The fluid is DOT 5.1 mineral and while the pedal feels firm enough when it bites it feels like a loooong push before you hit the bite point.

I'm just driving the car about on the drive at present and the brakes could well need re-adjusting again, once that's done I'll bleed them again with a pressure system. If the travel remains as it is I'll make up an extension piece to take up any slack.

Rich

[manifold]

Travel on my brakes is non existent. I had to back a bit off to stop it binding up when warm. 13mm spanner in pocket.

There's even an adjuster behind the pedal which allows you to take up the slack. Course setting front to rear done by using different capacity cylinders, Fine setting by adjusting the tilt on the balance bar.

Thats the good thing about splits. Great feel too, albeit you have to have a lead boot.

[johnnyfixit]

Even when I have set up brakes on different systems ie mini (depends how the back is adjusted)
or the Delica (other car)again servo adjusted and nice to ease on but are there when you need them!
.The mini (Domino ) has very hard brakes ie that bit more and it locks up depends what you want out of the system you are using & what you are used to on past motors you have driven I think ! It all bois down to what you think are good brakes as I've driven a lot of pills each with their own featcher like the Midas a bit of mix & match (after eleven at night 7 I've been out with the Lass so don't check the spelling)

[johnnyfixit]

Would love to get in touch with Peter Mills to see what has been changed and why?
Gather he has gone in to the sprint scene but with being X chairman must want to know what is happening with his X motor (competion??)

[Rich]

Newcastle Brown does that to me too.

[Geoff Butcher]

once that's done I'll bleed them again with a pressure system. If the travel remains as it is I'll make up an extension piece to take up any slack.
Rich

Careful with the pressure bleeding, Rich. I once had the plastic reservoir explode, and not through excess pressure, they just get brittle with age. It was no fun at all!