electricity!

[axshack]

Hi folks,
while the car is in a state of disarray, I am having a furtle around in the electrics, trying to find what is draining my battery.
My car has an aftermarket ignition switch fitted instead of the factory unit incorporating the steering lock. I still have the lock, just no electric connections to the back of it!

Is this the normal build for the Mk3?

If not, I would like to revert to the MG Metro setup and dispense with what I think is the root of my problem. Providing that it will work with the MIDAS wiring that is.

Any thoughts or pointers will be gratefully received

Cheers

Dave

[Stuart]

Normal is just the standard Metro system, no extra switches.

[axshack]

I thought it should be. time to locate a replacement loom I think !

[Jin]

Check the alternator, that's what was draining mine

[axshack]

Check the alternator, that's what was draining mine

will do, although it is a brand new one so I will be miffed if it is defective !!

[streetsy]

All three of the Midas cars I've owned have been connected to the ignition, I have re-wired two of them from scratch and have done both via the ignition and relays. Regarding the alternator, the exciter wire (the thinner of the three wires) should be to a switched live, if it goes to permanent live it will drain the battery.

[axshack]

now that is a great description of the potential problem, thanks for that !

[axshack]

Latest saga of the electrons !

Before I fitted the LED headlamps, I had a problem with the lights (and still do) which is:

on switching to side lights, a reduced voltage (about 7 volts) appeared on the dipped beam circuit! This still happens and so, the new DRLs go out because there is voltage present on the dipped beam circuit, but there should not be yet !! Also I get dimmed dip beam headlamps.

The light switch has 5 contacts and checking with a multimeter I can see it operating properly. BUT, I think the problem lies in my loom because I was expecting permanent 12V positive on the BROWN cable to the switch, then that 12V being switched in turn to dipped beam and main beam. This seems to be the case looking at the METRO wiring diagram for 1984/4 models.

What I get is 7V on the BROWN cable, then if I connect the multimeter across BROWN and RED I get 12V. I dont think this should happen at all. Anyone agree or disagree?

I also suspect that the aftermarket ignition switch has a part to play in this!

Any pointers or suggestions will be gratefully received...thanks
Dave

[axshack]

Now this is getting crazy!
I disconnected all of the LED headlamp cables so that they are out of circuit.
I disconnected the Lights switch
I disconnected the Dip switch on the steering column

I have a permanent 12V on the Dipped Beam circuit....

I have cleaned up all the earths I can find.

Now I do not know what to do....anyone have any ideas?

Cheers
Dave

[ACourtney]

I had a similar problem last year with Chris Nicholls' car. It had 12V at the headlights with the ignition on, but the dipped beam switched. However, there was not enough current to illuminate them. This turned out to be a connection problem at the back of the instrument pod - the 12V was coming from there back through the headlight on lamp due to a bad earth. In that case the other warning lights were also misbehaving, which gave a big clue to where the problem lay.