MGTF A Series Hybrid subframe

[Stuart]

Hello Guys,
The MG TF front top arm is a direct replacement for the A-series top arm. I already have them in stock! The bushing or bearings are exactly the same. The ball joint hole is in exactly the same position and the metro ball joint fits perfectly in th TF top arm. The only difference is that the TF top arm has a crank and an offset to take the coilover. If you had taken note of my pictures on the other post that was done last week, you will see that it works as a direct replacement! Where I'm at at the moment is awaiting metal to be laser cut so I can fix the top of the coilover! But as the cutting is done as a favour I will have to bide my time.
Alan

Not quite Alan, at great expense I thought I'd follow this route too. However what I have found is that the ball-joint hole is roughly 11 mm further forward and 6 mm further out

So anyone want to buy some nice TF top arms

[manifold]

Yes it does look a bit out of kilter there doesnt it. It would knock out the geometry quite a bit....unless the K series hub carriers counter this somehow.

Looks like its back to using an A series (or 'custom') upper arm.

I still think the upper tower conversion coilover can be done though.

Glad I have the Watsons kit that I discovered. Been using it successfully for 3 years now as my daily driver (ie not a show princess) with zero issues! I would say that it has been well tested!

[Stuart]

On the MGTF it looks like they have an altered bottom ball joint and longer steering arm to bring everything back inline.

The K-series subframe in the Mk3 already pushes the wheel forwards a bit, so with a TF set-up things get even worse.

[Stuart]

On the MGTF it looks like they have an altered bottom ball joint and longer steering arm to bring everything back inline.

Just a quick note to say the above statement is incorrect, I've just been told the A-series top arm and K-series arm are different. and the K-series set-up is more or less the same as the MGTF set-up (position wise), so the MGTF subframe is still a good option for MK4 Midas owners wanting to ditch their hydrogas.

[DavidL]

Yes it does look a bit out of kilter there doesnt it. It would knock out the geometry quite a bit....unless the K series hub carriers counter this somehow.

Just read this for the second or third time, and thought - nothing about the hub carrier could counteract this (IMHO) since the castor is measured against a line passing between the 2 pivot points.


(This is correct, isn't it? [confused])


(edited for spelling)

[Stuart]

Another niffty spring conversion kit here
http://www.rv8mg.com.au/gallery/SPARE+P ... -kit/45110

http://myobatlas-production-apac.s3-ap- ... ation1.pdf

[DavidL]

Another niffty spring conversion kit here
http://www.rv8mg.com.au/gallery/SPARE+P ... -kit/45110

http://myobatlas-production-apac.s3-ap- ... ation1.pdf

Much as I like the idea of a coil spring conversion, I gave in and bought a Liquid Levers pump to do my front Hydragas units.

I know, I'm weak.


Now all I have to do is work out how to use it...

[Stuart]

I've used a liquid levers pump in the past, a nice bit of kit.

[DavidL]

I've used a liquid levers pump in the past, a nice bit of kit.

Good to hear an independent view of them! The only person I've ever spoken to about them is the guy who makes them...

[manifold]

Another niffty spring conversion kit here
http://www.rv8mg.com.au/gallery/SPARE+P ... -kit/45110

http://myobatlas-production-apac.s3-ap- ... ation1.pdf

Stuart,

What this kit demonstrates is the unnecessary requirement of a locking ring (it doesn't have one)....just like mine. Mine hasn't moved an inch in 3 years daily driving.