In the Haynes manual it says you can remove the steering rack by taking off the clamps and the track rod ends, disconnect the steering column, then pull the rack out from the drivers side.
Has anyone managed this? Or is the Midas fit a bit too tight around the rack?
Changing steering rack
Moderator: The Midas Forum Staff
Re: Changing steering rack
Yes, you can't do this on a Midas because the bulkhead is too close to the subframe. I believe the way to do this is to unbolt the rear subframe mounts and to lower it a little bit.
-
max midas
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:32 pm
- Location: somewhere under the engine - again!
Re: Changing steering rack
Glad I wasn't going mad then.
Raising the body from an unbolted subframe is what I have in mind once my fingers and toes have defrosted!
Raising the body from an unbolted subframe is what I have in mind once my fingers and toes have defrosted!
Re: Changing steering rack
the way is to unbolt one front and one rear mount and rotate the subframe downward on the remaining axis (as the mounts are inline front to rear).
You might need to take exhaust off to allow this too.
You might need to take exhaust off to allow this too.
Midas Cars Forum Founder & Midas Facebook Group Page Founder (personal facebook account deactivated)
Midas Gold Convertible: 1380
Midas Gold Coupe: 1380
Midas Gold Convertible: 1380
Midas Gold Coupe: 1380
Re: Changing steering rack
the way is to unbolt one front and one rear mount and rotate the subframe downward on the remaining axis (as the mounts are inline front to rear). You might need to take exhaust off to allow this too.
Just fitted a new rack and thought I would confirm that that this is perfectly correct, but that (unless your mounts are less firmly attached than mine) removing the subframe mounts is the majority of the job, needs two people and should not be attempted without replacement bolts for the mounts as they tend to shear.
Supporting the subframe and jacking the car up on the way down and then jacking the subframe up to meet the body on the way down gives far better control and tapping with a wooden mallet helps to persuade it in both directions (while pushing by hand is largely ineffective). the rest of the job is simple.
One other thing. I fitted a simple rubber disk to replace the old disk that connects the steering column to the rack. Don't use these as mine had become dangerously deformed in a matter of months - get the heavy duty one with the metal surrounds as this will not fall apart. Likewise, the pinchbolt should be replaced with a longer high tensile steel bolt to allow you to add a locknut as mine had come loose again in a couple of months.
Just fitted a new rack and thought I would confirm that that this is perfectly correct, but that (unless your mounts are less firmly attached than mine) removing the subframe mounts is the majority of the job, needs two people and should not be attempted without replacement bolts for the mounts as they tend to shear.
Supporting the subframe and jacking the car up on the way down and then jacking the subframe up to meet the body on the way down gives far better control and tapping with a wooden mallet helps to persuade it in both directions (while pushing by hand is largely ineffective). the rest of the job is simple.
One other thing. I fitted a simple rubber disk to replace the old disk that connects the steering column to the rack. Don't use these as mine had become dangerously deformed in a matter of months - get the heavy duty one with the metal surrounds as this will not fall apart. Likewise, the pinchbolt should be replaced with a longer high tensile steel bolt to allow you to add a locknut as mine had come loose again in a couple of months.