Rear dampers
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Geoff Butcher
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:10 pm
- Location: Braintree
Rear dampers
Apparently the Spax rear dampers are no longer available. Has anyone used Protech? Someone called 'Midas' on the Turbominis forum ordered some in a group buy a while ago. Or any alternatives?
Geoff
Re: Rear dampers
That would be me Geoff. They work well and are really nicely made, the specs I ordered are on here somewhere.
Re: Rear dampers
Brilliant, thanks. I'm needing to get a pair too, and I'd.decided on those - then put it off for some forgotten reason...
Re: Rear dampers
Well worth it, there's the usual problem with the top stem not being long enough for the glass body so you end up cutting bushes down.
Since fitting the rear undertray I would occasionally get a small grounding on full bump, if I was regularly running 2 up I'd be tempted to get slightly heavier springs, maybe 120-130s.
Since fitting the rear undertray I would occasionally get a small grounding on full bump, if I was regularly running 2 up I'd be tempted to get slightly heavier springs, maybe 120-130s.
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Geoff Butcher
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:10 pm
- Location: Braintree
Re: Rear dampers
No problem Geoff, glad to be of help.
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Geoff Butcher
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:10 pm
- Location: Braintree
Re: Rear dampers
I'm a bit confused about this bottom mounting - do I gather that not all cars have the same? I have a bolt which presumably goes into a captive nut, but I haven't yet got the bolt out. A 5/8"/16mm socket won't go on and a 11/16"/17mm seems dangerously loose. Strange...
Geoff
Re: Rear dampers
I think there are at least two different mounts, the original Midas one, and then possibly the GTM one? The ones I have are like a box section open along the top, the damper bottom eye sits in it and a bolt goes through into a captive nut. Perfect rust traps.
Mine wouldn't move either, I had to strip the brakes them remove the three through bolts from inside the drum, remove the damper top mount, then attack the remaining mass of rust (ie, bracket and bottom eye of damper) in the vice. No idea what the bolt head sizes were originally, but the socket or spanner that did the original tightening wouldn't have fitted - I resorted to hammering on a six point socket and using an airgun on them to get any movement at all.
Mine wouldn't move either, I had to strip the brakes them remove the three through bolts from inside the drum, remove the damper top mount, then attack the remaining mass of rust (ie, bracket and bottom eye of damper) in the vice. No idea what the bolt head sizes were originally, but the socket or spanner that did the original tightening wouldn't have fitted - I resorted to hammering on a six point socket and using an airgun on them to get any movement at all.
Re: Rear dampers
a bit of corrosion then.Geoff Butcher wrote:I'm a bit confused about this bottom mounting - do I gather that not all cars have the same? I have a bolt which presumably goes into a captive nut, but I haven't yet got the bolt out. A 5/8"/16mm socket won't go on and a 11/16"/17mm seems dangerously loose. Strange...