rear coilover brackets for midas gold

[Rich]

Yep, those ones.....

Any plans for more Alan?

[Stuart]

We were hoping you could knock a few up on your lathe Rich

[Alan D.]

Yep, those ones.....

Any plans for more Alan?

Good Morning Rich,

I was not planning on having another batch made, as I have other plans for the rear subframe. When I've finished the front coilover conversion, I intend to make a replacement rear subframe (wrongly called a beam axle) very similar to David's.
I intend to manufacture tubular radius arms, which will do away with the need for these extended stub axles! So in time I will have two sets available, a pair of brand new radius arms with the extended stub axles fitted ( as pictured above) and the pair currently fitted to my car, which were new components, when I fitted them to my car a few thousand miles ago! My modified original subframe will be available as well.

The reason I'm going down this route, is that I believe that we are all living on borrowed time with the original Metro rear subframe, as they are rusting from inside the main across the car box section. The reason for this is, that Rover in their wisdom didn't include any drain holes in the cross beam. George had great problems locating a replacement rear subframe last year.

Alan

[Rich]

If you'd be willing to share the dimensions I'd have a look, though I feel the cutting required would be fairly torturous on my relatively small Myford.

[Geoff Butcher]

Even more so on my antique Drummond round bed!

[Alan D.]

If you'd be willing to share the dimensions I'd have a look, though I feel the cutting required would be fairly torturous on my relatively small Myford.

Hi Rich,

Happy to share the dimensions if I can find the drawing. Stuart has a copy on his hard drive somewhere, if he can find it he might publish it on the forum. The material used was EN 19, whatever that is, in modern specifications. The stud (coilover end) was 1/2 UNF. To match Gaz's bushes, but I would suggest 12mm and go with say Protech products in future. I did them in LH & RH threads, but I don't think that is the fashion any more! The challenge with doing another batch is that; it is probable only economical to do 10 or 20 sets, which is a large cash outlay and no guarantee of selling that many! There are about six cars fitted (although some of the owners may not know) with this type of stub axle, with no reported problems!









Alan

[manifold]

One mod you could do to make it easier to machine (one less thread to make on the bar) would be to drill out the shocker end and tap it 1/2" UNF (or equivalent metric) instead. Then fit shocker on a 1/2" caphead screw. Makes taking the shocker off easier as it doesnt need pushing out of way.

[Alan D.]

One mod you could do to make it easier to machine (one less thread to make on the bar) would be to drill out the shocker end and tap it 1/2" UNF (or equivalent metric) instead. Then fit shocker on a 1/2" caphead screw. Makes taking the shocker off easier as it doesnt need pushing out of way.

Somebody drilled and tapped the stub axle on Metro power,then made an extension of the stub axle which screwed in, after seeing a picture of our version of the stub axle, but I don't how successful or safe it was! You might find by doing a search on MP.

David's idea of a cap head screw directly into the stub axle won't work, as you need to extend the stub axle! It would need to be a long bolt about 80mm, but then again a high tensile bolt may work! Thinking about it look at the pictures of out MG TF front conversion, that is just a 12 mm bolt on the top arm and there is a lot more load on the front than the rear, so David I stand corrected!!

Alan

[manifold]

I reckon it will be fine as long as theres enough meat in the back end (oooo err!) .... and I mean on the Alan/Stuart style one, not the original one.

[Rich]

Ideal, they don't look too complex to do. I take it they simply drive out of the swing arm or is a big press required? I've never had need to remove a stub axle.